Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Heavy rain on May 3rd (19.1mm) followed by only limited drying in a sheltered, north-facing woodland setting means the rock is very likely still holding internal moisture. With further rain forecast from tomorrow onwards, conditions are not expected to improve this week.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's sheltered woodland setting traps humidity and blocks airflow, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
- The north/NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sun, removing the most effective drying mechanism — internal moisture can persist for days longer than at south-facing sites.
- The 19.1mm deluge on May 3rd was the largest single-day rainfall in the past month, and the gritstone will have absorbed moisture deep into the rock matrix.
- Seepage and ground dampness in the wooded glen floor are reliable indicators — if the soil and leaf litter at the base are damp, the rock is certainly still wet internally.
Warnings
2
- Shipley Glen's crimpy, technical problems put enormous stress on small holds — climbing on internally damp gritstone risks permanent hold breakage.
- The rock surface may feel dry to the touch despite dangerous internal saturation — do not rely on surface feel alone at this sheltered venue.
Reasoning
The 19.1mm event on May 3rd, followed by 0.6mm on May 4th and only 2.5 dry days since, leaves the porous gritstone almost certainly holding significant internal moisture in this sheltered, shaded setting.
With a north/NW aspect, sheltered woodland position, average humidity around 77%, and modest temperatures (~10–13°C), effective drying has been minimal — perhaps equivalent to 1–1.5 days of good drying against the 3+ days needed after heavy rain.
Gritstone at only partial saturation already suffers significant compressive strength loss; crimpy holds characteristic of Shipley Glen are especially vulnerable to breakage when the rock is weakened internally.
Early May in Yorkshire can produce good drying windows, but the current cool, humid, unsettled spell with temperatures barely above 10°C and persistent cloud cover is not providing the warmth or sun needed to dry a north-facing sheltered crag.
Contributing Factors
6
19.1mm fell on May 3rd — a heavy event requiring 48–72+ hours of good drying conditions, which have not been achieved.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air, severely reducing the evaporation rate from the rock surface.
With virtually no direct solar radiation reaching the crag, the most powerful drying mechanism is absent.
Average temperatures around 10°C over the past week provide only modest evaporative drive compared to summer warmth.
Two fully dry days with moderate wind and lower humidity (~67–77%) provided some surface drying, though insufficient for full internal drying.
6.7mm forecast for May 8th will re-wet any partially dried surfaces and reset the drying clock.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for a sustained dry spell of at least 3–4 days with good temperatures before visiting — the forecast does not show this window emerging soon.
- If visiting the area, check the ground conditions at the base of the boulders: if the soil and leaf litter are damp, the rock is certainly still wet internally.
- Consider nearby south-facing or exposed gritstone venues which will have dried significantly faster if you need a session this week.
Previous Analyses
Marginal — Assess Conditions
50%
2 days ago
Shipley Glen received 19.1mm of heavy rain on May 3rd followed by 0.6mm on the 4th, and has had only two full dry days since (May 5th and today). Given the sheltered woodland setting, north/NW aspect, and moderate temperatures (~10–11°C), this is borderline — the surface may feel dry in places but internal moisture is likely still present, especially at lower sections and in shaded alcoves. Climbers should visually and physically assess conditions on arrival before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting significantly reduces airflow across the rock, meaning the 25 km/h northerly wind on May 5th would have been far less effective at drying the crag than at an exposed moorland venue.
- North/NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock face even on clear days, removing the most powerful drying mechanism and making the site heavily reliant on wind and ambient temperature for evaporation.
- The 19.1mm downpour on May 3rd was preceded by a week of intermittent light rain (1.5mm on May 2nd, 0.2mm on Apr 27–28, 0.9mm on Apr 20), meaning the rock was already partially saturated before the heavy event — cumulative saturation extends required drying time.
- Woodland floor moisture and leaf litter around the boulders will maintain local humidity near the rock surface, further slowing drying even when ambient conditions improve.
Warnings
2
- 19.1mm of rain fell only 3 days ago on already-moist gritstone — the rock surface may appear dry while the interior remains dangerously weakened; test carefully before committing to highball problems.
- Rain is forecast to return from tomorrow (May 7th) through May 11th, which will re-saturate the rock and reset drying progress.
Reasoning
The 19.1mm event on May 3rd would have deeply saturated the porous gritstone, and only two dry days with moderate temperatures (10–12°C) and average humidity (~77%) have elapsed — insufficient for confident full drying at this sheltered, north-facing venue.
Drying since the last significant rain has been hampered by the sheltered woodland setting, north/NW aspect blocking direct sun, and moderate-to-high humidity (77% average over the last 7 days), though a decent northerly wind on May 5th (25.6 km/h) and lower humidity today (66%) are helping.
With only ~48 hours of drying after heavy rain on already partially saturated gritstone, there is a meaningful risk of internal moisture causing reduced hold strength and grain loosening, particularly on lower boulder faces and north-facing aspects.
Early May in Yorkshire brings improving but still unreliable conditions — temperatures are moderate but not warm enough for rapid drying, and the trees are now in full leaf which further shades and shelters the glen.
Contributing Factors
8
19.1mm fell on May 3rd, a substantial soaking that would have deeply penetrated the porous gritstone — the standard guideline calls for 48–72+ hours of good drying conditions after >10mm rain.
May 5th and 6th have been dry, but two days is the bare minimum even under ideal conditions, and conditions here are far from ideal (sheltered, north-facing, moderate temps).
The wooded glen traps humidity and blocks wind from reaching the rock surface, significantly slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland grit venues.
No meaningful direct solar radiation reaches these faces, removing the single most effective drying factor for rock.
20.5 km/h NE wind today and 25.6 km/h N wind yesterday provide some drying benefit, though the sheltered setting reduces effective wind speed at the rock face.
Humidity is falling to around 52–54% through the afternoon, which provides a reasonable evaporative gradient at the rock surface.
Intermittent rain throughout mid-to-late April (44.7mm in 28 days) means the rock was already partially saturated before the May 3rd downpour, extending required drying time.
1.8mm is forecast for May 7th, followed by further rain on May 9–11, meaning any drying progress will soon be reversed.
Recommendations
3
- If visiting today, physically check the rock and ground moisture at the base of the boulders — if the soil or leaf litter feels damp, the rock is almost certainly still wet internally and you should not climb.
- Focus on any overhanging or steeper faces that shed water quickly, and avoid slab or vertical faces where moisture lingers longest.
- Consider waiting for a longer dry spell — the forecast shows rain returning from May 7th onward, so today may be the best window for several days, but conditions are marginal.
Do Not Climb
70%
3 days ago
Heavy rain on May 3rd (19.1mm) followed by further light rain on May 4th and today means the rock at Shipley Glen is almost certainly still damp internally. The sheltered woodland setting, north-facing aspect, and high recent humidity will have severely limited drying — we recommend waiting at least until May 7th or 8th before considering climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's sheltered woodland canopy traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning the moderate winds forecast today (26 km/h N) will have far less drying effect at the rock surface than at exposed moorland venues.
- The north/north-west aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sun even in May, removing the most powerful drying mechanism available to south-facing gritstone edges.
- The wooded glen floor will hold moisture from the 19.1mm deluge on May 3rd, and if the ground at the base of the boulders is still damp, the rock is almost certainly wet internally.
- Many of Shipley Glen's problems rely on small crimps and edges on Millstone Grit — exactly the hold types most vulnerable to breakage when the rock is weakened by internal moisture.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on internally damp Millstone Grit risks permanent hold breakage — the small crimps at Shipley Glen are irreplaceable and especially vulnerable.
- The rock surface may appear dry while the interior remains saturated — do not rely on surface appearance alone after heavy rain at this sheltered venue.
Reasoning
19.1mm fell on May 3rd, followed by 0.6mm on May 4th and 0.1mm today, giving the rock barely 1.5 days of imperfect drying after a heavy soaking — the interior is very likely still saturated.
Despite some wind today, the sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect drastically reduce effective drying; humidity has averaged ~75–85% since the rain, and temperatures have been modest (7–13°C), all of which retard evaporation.
With internal moisture likely well above 1% saturation, Millstone Grit holds — especially the small crimps Shipley Glen is famous for — face meaningful risk of grain loosening and breakage under load.
Spring conditions in late April/early May are improving but the recent prolonged wet spell (44.8mm in 28 days) means background moisture levels in porous gritstone remain elevated.
Contributing Factors
7
19.1mm on May 3rd is a heavy soaking for porous gritstone, requiring 48–72+ hours of good drying conditions at a minimum.
Only ~1.5 days have elapsed since the heavy rain, with further light precipitation on May 4th and today resetting the drying clock.
The wooded glen severely limits wind penetration and airflow at the rock surface, drastically slowing evaporative drying compared to exposed edges.
N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun even in May, removing the strongest drying driver for the rock surface and interior.
Humidity has averaged 75–85% since the rain, significantly reducing the evaporative gradient needed to draw moisture from the rock.
Dry weather is forecast from May 6th onward with dropping humidity (55–65%), which should allow meaningful drying over the coming days.
Temperatures of 10–12°C today are adequate for some drying but not exceptional — not cold enough to halt drying but not warm enough to accelerate it significantly.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least until May 7th–8th before visiting, allowing 3–4 full dry days for this sheltered, north-facing venue.
- On arrival, check the ground at the base of the boulders — if the soil or leaf litter is still damp, the rock is almost certainly wet internally and should not be climbed.
- Prioritise any west- or south-facing faces within the glen first, as these will dry fastest, and avoid shaded recesses and lower sections of boulders.
Do Not Climb
90%
4 days ago
Shipley Glen received 19.1mm of heavy rain yesterday (May 3rd) in near-saturated conditions (94–98% humidity), and the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting has had less than 24 hours of marginal drying since. The rock will still be thoroughly saturated internally despite any surface improvement later today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's wooded glen setting traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning drying rates are substantially slower than for exposed moorland gritstone edges like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect receives minimal direct sunlight even in May, so solar-driven evaporation is negligible — drying depends almost entirely on wind and ambient humidity, both of which are poor today.
- The preceding two weeks have been persistently damp (44mm in 28 days with frequent small rain events on Apr 15–18, 20–21, 27–28), meaning background moisture levels in the rock were already elevated before yesterday's heavy soaking.
- Many problems at Shipley Glen are on small crimps and edges that are particularly vulnerable to hold breakage when the gritstone is weakened by moisture — the highball nature of the venue adds a serious safety dimension.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage on Shipley Glen's characteristically small crimps and edges — damage that is irreversible.
- The highball nature of many problems here means a slip on greasy, damp rock carries serious injury risk from ground falls.
Reasoning
The rock received 19.1mm of rain yesterday in near-saturated atmospheric conditions (94–98% RH), following weeks of intermittent dampness, and will be thoroughly saturated internally — well above the critical ~1% saturation threshold where significant weakening begins.
Less than 24 hours have elapsed since heavy rain ended, today's winds are very light (3–15 km/h) at a sheltered site, humidity remains high (60–96%), and the north-facing aspect receives minimal sun — meaningful drying has barely begun.
At near-full saturation, gritstone compressive strength is reduced by 30–50%, making small crimps and edges highly susceptible to breakage, which would permanently damage this venue's characteristically technical problems.
Spring conditions in early May are improving but the recent prolonged damp spell and moderate temperatures (~10–15°C) mean drying is slow; the site is not yet benefiting from the sustained warm, dry spells that make summer the prime season here.
Contributing Factors
7
19.1mm fell on May 3rd across the morning in near-saturated conditions, thoroughly wetting the porous gritstone.
Less than 24 hours since heavy rain ceased, far short of the 48–72+ hours needed after >10mm rainfall.
The wooded glen traps moisture and blocks airflow, significantly retarding evaporation compared to exposed gritstone edges.
The N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sunlight, eliminating the most effective natural drying mechanism.
Wind speeds of only 3–15 km/h today provide little assistance with drying, especially in a sheltered location.
Frequent rain events over the preceding weeks (44mm in 28 days) mean the rock never fully dried out before yesterday's soaking.
Humidity falls to around 60–65% by mid-afternoon, which helps surface drying but is insufficient for meaningful internal drying in one day.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock is almost certainly still saturated after yesterday's 19mm of rain and needs at least 48–72 hours of dry weather to recover.
- The best window this week will likely be Thursday May 7th or Friday May 8th, after 2–3 consecutive dry days with dropping humidity.
- Before climbing on any return visit, check the ground at the base of the boulders — if the soil, leaf litter, or moss is damp, the rock is still wet internally.
Do Not Climb
95%
4 days ago
Shipley Glen received nearly 20mm of rain today with 94% humidity, and the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will retain this moisture for days. The rock is almost certainly saturated and climbing today or tomorrow would risk both hold breakage and permanent route damage.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting traps humid air and blocks wind, meaning drying rates are significantly slower than at exposed moorland grit venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun even in May, so solar drying contribution is negligible — drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature.
- Prior to today's heavy rain, the rock had only marginal drying from light showers on April 27–28 and May 2, meaning the rock was unlikely to have been fully dry before this 19.9mm event.
- The bouldering here relies heavily on small crimps and edges — exactly the type of holds most vulnerable to breakage on damp gritstone due to grain loosening.
Warnings
2
- 19.9mm of rain today on porous gritstone means the rock is thoroughly saturated — climbing now risks permanent hold breakage on irreplaceable problems.
- The surface may appear dry before the interior has dried — do not be fooled by surface appearance at this sheltered, north-facing venue.
Reasoning
Today's 19.9mm of rain at 94% humidity will have thoroughly saturated the porous gritstone, and with recent preceding showers on May 2 (1.5mm), April 28 (0.2mm), and April 27 (0.2mm), the rock had limited opportunity to fully dry out beforehand.
The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting with light forecast winds (14–17 km/h) and continued high humidity (70–84%) over the next two days means effective drying will be extremely slow — expect a minimum of 72+ hours before the rock approaches acceptable condition.
With nearly 20mm of rain today on already marginally damp gritstone, internal saturation is likely well above the 60% threshold, posing serious risk of hold breakage on the small crimps and edges that characterise this venue.
Spring conditions in late April/early May are improving but temperatures remain moderate (9–14°C forecast), and the recent pattern of repeated light rain events has kept the rock in a persistently marginal state.
Contributing Factors
7
19.9mm of precipitation today is a significant soaking event requiring at least 48–72+ hours of dry weather to recover, especially at a sheltered venue.
Today's 94% humidity with forecast humidity of 84% tomorrow and 70% the day after severely limits evaporative drying.
The wooded glen traps moist air and blocks wind, dramatically slowing drying compared to open moorland grit crags.
The N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sunlight even in May, removing solar drying as a meaningful factor.
21.8mm in the last 7 days and 49.1mm in the last 28 days indicates the rock has been repeatedly wetted without adequate drying intervals.
Forecast winds of 14–17 km/h are modest and unlikely to penetrate the sheltered glen effectively to aid drying.
Temperatures of 9–14°C over the next few days are adequate for some evaporation but not warm enough to drive rapid drying in a sheltered setting.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock is saturated from nearly 20mm of rain and conditions are clearly unsafe.
- Wait a minimum of 3 full dry days (earliest May 6) before considering a visit, and even then visually assess conditions on arrival given the sheltered setting.
- Check the ground at the base of the boulders on arrival — if the earth and leaf litter are still damp, the rock interior is almost certainly wet.
Do Not Climb
95%
4 days ago
Shipley Glen received nearly 20mm of rain today with 92% humidity, and the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will retain this moisture for days. The rock is almost certainly saturated and climbing today or tomorrow would risk permanent damage to the gritstone holds.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning drying rates are significantly slower than at open moorland gritstone edges like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun even in May, so solar drying contribution is minimal — drying depends almost entirely on air temperature, humidity, and what little wind reaches the boulders.
- The preceding two weeks have been persistently unsettled with frequent light rain (21.7mm in the last 7 days alone), meaning the rock has had no opportunity to dry out fully before today's heavy soaking.
- Ground-level boulders in woodland tend to wick moisture from saturated soil beneath — check that the ground around boulder bases is sandy-dry before trusting surface appearance.
Warnings
2
- 19.8mm of rain on already-damp gritstone creates severe hold breakage risk — Shipley Glen's signature small crimps are especially vulnerable.
- The surface may appear dry well before the interior has dried sufficiently — do not be deceived by surface appearance at this sheltered venue.
Reasoning
Today's 19.8mm of heavy rain on top of 21.7mm in the past week at 92% humidity means the gritstone is almost certainly fully saturated, with pore saturation likely well above the critical 60% threshold.
With a sheltered, north-facing, wooded aspect and only light winds forecast, drying will be extremely slow — expect a minimum of 48–72 hours before even surface drying is achieved, and internal moisture will persist longer still.
At near-full saturation the gritstone could be experiencing 30%+ compressive strength loss, making crimps and small edges — which are the defining feature of Shipley Glen — highly vulnerable to breakage.
Spring temperatures around 10–15°C provide moderate drying potential, but the persistent dampness through April and the sheltered woodland microclimate mean conditions have been chronically moist for weeks.
Contributing Factors
7
19.8mm of rain today is a significant soaking event that will saturate the porous gritstone throughout.
21.7mm over the past 7 days with no sustained dry spell means the rock had no chance to dry before today's downpour.
At 92% relative humidity, net evaporation from the rock surface is negligible, effectively stalling any drying.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air, dramatically slowing drying compared to exposed moorland edges.
Minimal direct sunlight even in May means almost no solar-driven drying, leaving the rock reliant on air movement alone.
Humidity drops to 49–57% from May 6 onward with no rain, which will eventually allow meaningful drying.
Temperatures of 10–15°C provide some drying capacity but are not warm enough to accelerate evaporation rapidly in a sheltered setting.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today — the rock is saturated and holds are at serious risk of breakage.
- Wait at least 72 hours after today's rain before considering a visit, and physically check that the ground around boulder bases is completely dry before climbing.
- If keen to climb this week, consider a south-facing, exposed, non-porous venue instead — Shipley Glen's microclimate means it will be one of the last local venues to come into condition.
Do Not Climb
95%
4 days ago
Shipley Glen received 19.1mm of heavy rain today with 93% humidity, and the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will retain this moisture for days. The rock is certainly saturated and climbing today or tomorrow would risk both hold breakage and permanent route damage.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen setting traps humid air and blocks airflow, meaning drying times here are significantly longer than at exposed moorland gritstone venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect receives almost no direct sun even in May, so solar drying contribution is minimal — evaporation depends almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature.
- The small crimps and edges that characterise Shipley Glen's problems are particularly vulnerable to breakage on damp gritstone, as the high-force fingertip loading on small holds concentrates stress on weakened grains.
- Seepage and ground moisture in the glen floor will be significant after 19mm of rain; if the ground at the base of the boulders is wet, the rock is almost certainly still saturated internally.
Warnings
2
- 19mm of rain today on already-damp gritstone means the rock is fully saturated — climbing now risks permanent hold destruction on Shipley Glen's irreplaceable crimpy problems.
- Surface drying may occur before internal drying is complete; do not be fooled by a dry-looking surface in the next 48 hours.
Reasoning
With 19.1mm of rain today at 93% humidity, the gritstone will be fully saturated — likely well above the critical 60% pore saturation threshold, with rapid strength loss already occurring within hours of wetting.
The sheltered, north-facing woodland aspect with only moderate wind (25.6 km/h today, dropping to 13 km/h tomorrow) and high humidity (82% forecast tomorrow) means drying will be extremely slow — a minimum of 48–72 hours is needed even in good conditions, and this site's characteristics push that toward the longer end.
At current saturation levels, gritstone compressive strength is reduced by 10–50%, and the small crimpy holds that define Shipley Glen are at serious risk of snapping under climbing loads.
Spring conditions in late April/early May are improving but temperatures remain moderate (11–13°C), and the recent pattern of intermittent rain over the past fortnight means the rock has had little opportunity to dry out fully before today's heavy soaking.
Contributing Factors
7
19.1mm of rain today is well above the heavy rain threshold (>10mm), requiring a minimum 48–72+ hours of dry weather before the rock can be considered safe.
Today's 93% humidity and tomorrow's forecast 82% severely limit evaporation, meaning moisture will persist in the rock far longer than temperature alone would suggest.
The wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind from reaching the rock surface, significantly extending drying times compared to exposed gritstone edges.
The north-facing aspect receives minimal direct sunlight even in May, removing one of the most effective drying mechanisms.
21mm in the last 7 days and 48.3mm in the last 28 days mean the rock has had limited opportunity to dry out before today's heavy soaking, compounding the moisture problem.
Temperatures around 11–15°C are adequate for some evaporation but not warm enough to drive rapid drying, especially in a sheltered, shaded setting.
From May 6 onward, humidity drops to 49–57% with dry conditions, which will eventually allow meaningful drying — but only after a 2–3 day lag for this sheltered site.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today or tomorrow — the rock is saturated and holds are at serious risk of breakage.
- Wait until at least May 7 or 8 before visiting, and even then check ground moisture at the base of boulders as a field test — if the ground is damp, the rock is still wet internally.
- If you need to climb sooner, consider a non-porous alternative such as a limestone sport crag or whinstone venue that handles moisture without structural damage.
Do Not Climb
60%
5 days ago
Today has seen 1.4mm of rain, breaking a promising dry spell, and tomorrow brings a very heavy 28.4mm downpour — conditions are marginal today and about to get much worse. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting at Shipley Glen means even light rain takes considerable time to clear, and the rock cannot be considered reliably dry today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning drying rates are significantly slower than at exposed moorland gritstone edges like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect receives very little direct sun even in May, so solar drying contribution is minimal — drying relies almost entirely on ambient temperature and what little air movement reaches the glen.
- Shipley Glen's speciality is small crimps and edges on highball problems, making hold integrity especially critical — even minor weakening of gritstone grain bonds from residual moisture could lead to hold failure on these delicate features.
- Seepage and capillary moisture from the wooded hillside above can feed moisture to the rock long after surface rain has stopped, particularly at the base of boulders nestled into the slope.
Warnings
2
- A major 28.4mm rainfall event is forecast for tomorrow (May 3) — this will thoroughly saturate the gritstone and surrounding ground, making conditions unsafe for several days.
- Shipley Glen's crimpy highball style demands full hold integrity; climbing on even marginally damp gritstone here risks both serious injury from hold failure and permanent route damage.
Reasoning
Today's 1.4mm rain has wetted the rock surface, and although the preceding 4–5 days were largely dry with warm temperatures (up to 21.5°C), the sheltered woodland microclimate means residual moisture from scattered light rain on April 27–28 may not have fully cleared before today's wetting.
Wind today is only 16.6 km/h from the west, which will barely penetrate the sheltered glen; combined with the north-facing aspect and 76% humidity, meaningful drying from today's rain will be very slow and incomplete by end of day.
With fresh rain today and significant weakening beginning at just ~1% saturation, the small crimps and edges characteristic of Shipley Glen are at elevated risk of grain loosening and hold breakage.
Early May temperatures are moderate (helping drying potential) but the site's sheltered, shaded character negates much of the seasonal advantage that exposed crags would enjoy at this time of year.
Contributing Factors
8
1.4mm of rain today has wetted the rock, ending the beneficial dry period that ran from April 29 to May 1.
The wooded glen setting traps moisture and blocks wind, dramatically slowing drying compared to exposed moorland gritstone venues.
The N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun even in May, removing the most effective natural drying mechanism.
Four largely dry days (April 29–May 1) with warm temperatures up to 21.5°C will have driven out deeper moisture from earlier April rain, meaning today's wetting is primarily a surface re-wetting.
Temperatures around 11–16°C support reasonable evaporation rates, though the sheltered setting limits the benefit.
28.4mm forecast for May 3 will thoroughly saturate the rock and surrounding woodland, requiring an extended drying period afterwards.
76% humidity today limits evaporative drying potential, and tomorrow's 88% humidity will essentially halt any drying.
16.6 km/h winds will have negligible effect within the sheltered glen, removing wind-assisted drying as a factor.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock has been freshly wetted and the sheltered, shaded setting means it will not dry adequately before conditions worsen dramatically tomorrow.
- Avoid Shipley Glen for at least 3–4 days after the heavy rain forecast for May 3; the sheltered woodland setting will need extended drying time.
- If you are keen to climb this weekend, consider a more exposed, south-facing venue where today's light rain and tomorrow's heavy rain will clear more quickly.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
70%
6 days ago
Three consecutive dry days with warming temperatures (up to 20.9°C today) and moderate humidity suggest the rock is likely dry after only trace precipitation on April 27–28. However, the sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect at Shipley Glen warrant on-site verification before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen setting traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning drying times are significantly longer than at exposed moorland gritstone venues like Almscliff or Ilkley.
- North/NW aspect means the boulders receive minimal direct sunlight even in late April/early May, so solar drying is limited — look for damp patches on north-facing surfaces and at boulder bases.
- The predominantly easterly winds over the last few days may not penetrate effectively into the sheltered glen, reducing the wind-drying benefit despite reasonable wind speeds on the open moor above.
- Many of the classic highball problems rely on small crimps and edges that are particularly vulnerable to breakage on damp gritstone — extra caution is warranted on these features.
Warnings
2
- Heavy rain (11.5mm) is forecast for May 3rd — do not climb at Shipley Glen for at least 48–72 hours afterwards given the sheltered, shaded setting.
- Shipley Glen's highball problems on small crimps carry elevated risk of hold breakage if gritstone retains any internal moisture — if holds feel at all soft or gritty, back off immediately.
Reasoning
Only 0.4mm of precipitation fell in the last 7 days (trace amounts on April 27–28), and the rock has had three full dry days with temperatures reaching 19–21°C, suggesting surface and near-surface moisture should have largely evaporated.
Despite three dry days and warm temperatures, the sheltered woodland position and north-facing aspect significantly retard drying — easterly winds over recent days would have limited penetration into the glen, though humidity has been moderate (63–65%).
The gritstone should be approaching safe structural integrity given the extended dry spell since the last meaningful rain on April 20 (0.9mm), but the sheltered microclimate means internal moisture from the wetter mid-April period (5.8mm on Apr 15, 7.4mm on Apr 11) could linger in deeper sections.
Early May offers improving drying conditions with longer days and warmer temperatures, though spring weather remains changeable and heavy rain (11.5mm) is forecast for May 3rd.
Contributing Factors
7
No measurable precipitation since April 28 (0.2mm trace), giving the rock a solid drying window of approximately 3 days.
Today's maximum of 20.9°C is the warmest in the recent period and significantly aids evaporation from the rock surface.
The wooded glen traps moist air and blocks wind, substantially slowing drying compared to exposed gritstone edges.
N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun even in early May, reducing solar-driven evaporation and prolonging damp conditions.
Humidity at 63–65% over recent days is acceptable for drying but not ideal, and the sheltered setting likely produces higher local humidity.
Only 0.4mm in the last 7 days and the last significant rain was 5.8mm on April 15, giving over two weeks of predominantly dry weather.
11.5mm forecast on May 3 will reset drying conditions and likely render the crag unsuitable for several days afterwards.
Recommendations
3
- Check the ground at the base of boulders — if soil or leaf litter is still damp, the rock is likely holding internal moisture and you should not climb.
- Prioritise any south-facing or overhanging faces which will have dried faster; avoid low-level slabby north-facing problems where moisture persists longest.
- Plan sessions for today or tomorrow (May 1–2) as heavy rain forecast for May 3 will reset conditions for the rest of the week.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
68%
9 days ago
The last meaningful rain was 0.2mm on April 27–28, and before that a trace of 0.2mm on April 27, with a solid dry spell from April 22–26. While the extended dry spell from the 22nd–26th would have dried the rock well, the very light precipitation on the 27th–28th and high overnight humidity in the sheltered woodland setting introduce enough uncertainty that on-ground assessment is warranted. Today's lower humidity (63%) and moderate easterly wind should help, but the sheltered, north-facing aspect limits drying efficiency.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's wooded, sheltered setting traps humid air and significantly slows evaporation compared to exposed moorland gritstone venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect means almost no direct sun reaches the rock faces, so drying relies almost entirely on ambient temperature and air movement rather than solar heating.
- The glen's boulders sit among trees and undergrowth that retain ground moisture — check the soil and leaf litter at the base of problems as a proxy for rock moisture.
- April's cumulative rainfall of 33.2mm over 28 days means background moisture levels in the woodland environment remain elevated even during dry spells.
Warnings
2
- High overnight humidity in the sheltered glen can deposit condensation on rock that appeared dry the previous evening — do not assume morning conditions match afternoon conditions.
- The highball nature of many Shipley Glen problems means that any residual dampness on small crimps poses a serious fall risk — retreat if holds feel glassy or slick.
Reasoning
The rock received only trace precipitation (0.2mm) on April 27–28 after a 5-day completely dry spell (April 22–26) with warm temperatures up to 18.4°C, so the interior should be largely dry, though the sheltered woodland micro-climate and high overnight humidity (90%+) may have introduced surface condensation.
Today's conditions — 15°C, 63% humidity, and 31 km/h easterly wind — provide reasonable drying, but the sheltered glen position means wind penetration is limited and the north-facing aspect receives negligible direct solar heating, slowing effective drying.
With only trace moisture in the last 48 hours and a good preceding dry spell, structural risk from weakened holds is low but not negligible given the cumulative 33mm of rain this month and the site's moisture-retentive character.
Late April offers improving temperatures and longer days, but overnight lows near 5°C and high nocturnal humidity in the sheltered glen mean condensation can re-wet surfaces that appeared dry the previous afternoon.
Contributing Factors
7
Only 0.4mm total in the last 7 days, with the most significant rain (7.4mm on April 11, 5.8mm on April 15) now well over two weeks ago.
Five consecutive completely dry days from April 22–26 with warm temperatures (up to 18.4°C) and low humidity (54–72%) provided excellent drying conditions.
The glen's wooded, enclosed setting traps humidity and blocks wind, significantly reducing the effective drying rate compared to exposed gritstone edges.
N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sunlight even in late April, meaning the rock relies almost entirely on ambient warmth and air movement to dry.
Overnight humidity reached 90–93% in the last 24 hours, which can deposit condensation on cold rock surfaces in the sheltered glen.
Current conditions of 15°C, 63% humidity, and 31 km/h wind are reasonable for drying, though wind penetration into the sheltered glen will be limited.
33.2mm over 28 days keeps background ground and woodland moisture levels high, maintaining a damp micro-climate around the boulders.
Recommendations
3
- Visit in the afternoon when any overnight condensation has had maximum time to evaporate and temperatures are highest.
- Physically test rock surfaces and check the soil/leaf litter at the base of boulders — if the ground feels damp, the rock likely retains internal moisture.
- Prioritise any problems on steeper or overhanging faces, which shed water faster and are less prone to condensation than slabs or vertical walls.
Climbing Outlook