Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Heavy rain on May 3rd (18.1mm) followed by only 3–4 days of modest drying on a NW-facing, woodland-sheltered crag means the rock is very likely still holding significant internal moisture. With further rain forecast from tomorrow onwards, conditions are not expected to improve this week.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting significantly slows drying — tree cover traps humidity and blocks airflow around the boulders, especially the Roadside Boulders which sit lower among the trees.
- The NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sun until late evening in summer; in early May the sun angle is still too low to meaningfully dry the rock face.
- The Main Crag higher up the hill may dry slightly faster than the Roadside Boulders due to better wind exposure and drainage, but both sections will be affected after 18mm of rain.
- Caley's classic tenuous slabs and friction-dependent problems are especially dangerous when any residual moisture is present — even surface-dry grit can fail catastrophically if internally damp.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on internally damp gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — Caley's iconic problems are irreplaceable.
- The rock surface may feel dry to the touch this afternoon but the interior is almost certainly still saturated from the 18mm event; do not be deceived by surface conditions.
Reasoning
The 18.1mm deluge on May 3rd would have deeply saturated the porous gritstone, and only ~3.5 dry days have elapsed since, with average temperatures around 10°C and humidity averaging 77% — far too little drying for a NW-facing woodland crag.
Wind has been light to moderate (11–19 km/h) from N/NE/E directions which provides some surface drying, but the sheltered woodland setting and NW aspect severely limit evaporation, meaning the 18mm event likely requires 4–7 days of good drying conditions that have not materialised.
Gritstone at only partial saturation already loses significant compressive strength, and the internally wet state from recent heavy rain creates real risk of hold breakage and grain loosening, particularly on well-trafficked problems.
Early May in Yorkshire at 200m can still produce cool overnight temperatures (near-frost on May 6th at -0.8°C), slowing drying overnight, and the upcoming forecast shows a return to unsettled weather negating any further drying progress.
Contributing Factors
6
18.1mm of rain on May 3rd would have deeply saturated the porous gritstone, requiring extended drying time well beyond the 3–4 days that have passed.
The NW-facing aspect receives minimal direct sunlight, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to south-facing crags.
The tree-covered setting traps humidity around the boulders and reduces wind effect on the rock surface.
Average temperature of ~10°C and 77% humidity over the past week provide poor drying conditions, with overnight humidity regularly exceeding 85%.
Wind has been light to moderate (11–19 km/h) which offers some surface drying but is insufficient to overcome the other adverse factors at a sheltered woodland crag.
Rain is forecast on each of the next four days (totalling ~8mm), which will re-wet any progress and reset drying timelines.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today — the gritstone is very likely still holding internal moisture from the 18.1mm rain on May 3rd despite appearing surface-dry in places.
- Monitor conditions through the coming week; you will need at least 2–3 consecutive fully dry days after the forecast rain clears before considering a visit.
- If you must scratch the climbing itch this week, consider a non-porous alternative such as limestone at Malham or Kilnsey, or whinstone at Simonside, which are unaffected by moisture-related structural damage.
Previous Analyses
Do Not Climb
45%
2 days ago
Heavy rain on May 3rd (18.1mm) followed by only two full dry days and a trace on May 4th means the gritstone is very likely still holding internal moisture, especially on this NW-facing, woodland-sheltered crag. With rain returning tomorrow and persisting through the coming days, conditions are not suitable for climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley sits in a woodland setting that significantly reduces airflow and sun exposure, slowing drying well beyond what open-aspect crags experience.
- The Roadside Boulders at lower elevation and deeper in the trees will retain moisture longer than the Main Crag higher up the hill.
- NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock faces — drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature, both of which have been modest.
- Caley's famous slabs and delicate holds are particularly vulnerable to grain loosening when damp; climbing on wet grit here risks permanent damage to irreplaceable problems.
Warnings
2
- Caley's delicate slab problems and fragile edges are especially vulnerable to permanent damage when climbed on damp grit — please resist the temptation.
- Surface-dry gritstone can still be critically weakened internally; do not rely on touch alone to judge conditions.
Reasoning
The 18.1mm deluge on May 3rd saturated the rock deeply, and with only two dry days since (plus a 0.4mm trace on May 4th), internal moisture levels remain well above safe thresholds despite the surface potentially appearing dry.
Moderate winds (11–19 km/h) and cool temperatures (10–14°C) over the past two days provide only modest drying capacity, and the NW-facing, tree-sheltered aspect means effective drying has been minimal — far short of the 48–72+ hours of good drying conditions needed after heavy rain.
At likely internal saturation levels, gritstone holds face 10–50% compressive strength reduction, making Caley's notoriously delicate slab holds and edges prone to breakage.
Early May temperatures are still cool (averaging ~10°C this week) and the preceding weeks have been persistently damp (33.5mm over 28 days), meaning baseline moisture in the rock is elevated above summer norms.
Contributing Factors
6
18.1mm fell on May 3rd — well above the 10mm threshold requiring 48–72+ hours of good drying conditions, of which only ~2 days of modest drying have occurred.
The crag receives virtually no direct sun and the woodland setting suppresses wind, dramatically slowing evaporation from the rock.
Average temperatures around 10°C over the drying window are insufficient to drive rapid evaporation from porous gritstone.
Winds of 12–19 km/h on May 5th and 6th provide some drying benefit, though partially blocked by the woodland setting.
Forecast rain from May 7th through May 11th (totalling ~15mm) will re-wet the rock before it has adequately dried from the May 3rd event.
33.5mm over 28 days and 19.9mm in the last 7 days indicate the rock has had little opportunity to dry out fully at any point this spring.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today — internal moisture from the May 3rd heavy rain is very likely still present despite surface appearance.
- With rain forecast from tomorrow through May 11th, consider alternative non-porous venues (limestone, whinstone) for the coming week.
- If visiting, check the ground at the base of the boulders — if the soil is damp or dark, the rock is certainly still wet inside.
Do Not Climb
45%
3 days ago
Heavy rain on May 3rd (18.1mm) followed by only ~1.5 dry days is insufficient drying time for NW-facing gritstone in a woodland setting; the rock is very likely still damp internally despite potentially appearing dry on the surface. We recommend waiting at least another day or two before climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting (especially the Roadside Boulders sheltered by tree canopy) significantly slows evaporation and traps humidity around the rock, meaning drying takes longer than at open moorland grit venues.
- The NW aspect means the crag receives almost no direct sun during the crucial midday drying hours — only late evening summer sun reaches the rock, which is weak and brief at this time of year.
- The Main Crag higher up the hill may have slightly better wind exposure than the Roadside Boulders and could dry marginally faster, but both areas should be treated with caution.
- Many of Caley's classic problems involve tenuous slab climbing and delicate friction-dependent moves where even marginal dampness dramatically increases both the danger of a fall and the risk of hold damage.
Warnings
2
- 18.1mm of rain fell only 48 hours ago — climbing on internally saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage and route damage, even if the surface appears dry.
- Caley's delicate slab problems are especially vulnerable to damage when damp; a broken hold here is irreplaceable.
Reasoning
18.1mm of rain fell on May 3rd with a further 0.4mm on May 4th, and only ~1 full dry day has elapsed since — given gritstone's porosity, the rock is almost certainly still holding significant internal moisture despite any surface drying.
The NW aspect and woodland shelter severely limit solar drying; moderate wind today (N, ~22 km/h) and cool temperatures (~11°C) provide some help but humidity has averaged 75% over the past week, meaning drying has been slow and incomplete.
With 18.1mm of rain only 48 hours ago, gritstone pore saturation is likely still well above the threshold where significant strength loss occurs (>1% saturation), posing real risk of hold breakage on Caley's characteristically delicate features.
Early May in Yorkshire is transitional — days are lengthening but temperatures remain cool, and the April pattern shows repeated light rainfall events that have kept the rock in a persistently damp state for weeks.
Contributing Factors
7
18.1mm fell on May 3rd — this is heavy rain requiring 48–72+ hours of good drying conditions, and only ~36 hours have passed.
Only 1 consecutive dry day since the last significant rain, well short of the 2–3 day minimum needed for porous gritstone after heavy rain.
The NW-facing aspect receives minimal direct sun, especially in early May, dramatically slowing evaporation from the rock surface.
The wooded setting at Caley reduces airflow around the boulders and maintains higher local humidity, further retarding drying.
Northerly wind at ~22 km/h today and dropping humidity (down to 58–64% by midday) provide some drying assistance.
33.5mm over the last 28 days with frequent light rain events means the rock has had little opportunity to fully dry out this spring.
Average temperatures around 10–12°C and overnight lows near 5°C limit evaporative drying capacity.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least until May 7th before visiting, allowing 3+ full dry days with improving conditions to pass since the heavy rain on May 3rd.
- If you do visit, check the ground at the base of the boulders — if soil or leaf litter is still damp, the rock is certainly too wet to climb.
- Prioritise the more exposed upper Main Crag areas over the sheltered Roadside Boulders, as these will dry faster.
Do Not Climb
90%
4 days ago
Caley Crags received 18.1mm of heavy rain yesterday (May 3rd) in sustained, soaking conditions with near-saturation humidity, and only one dry day has passed since. The NW-facing, woodland-sheltered gritstone will be thoroughly saturated and nowhere near dry enough to climb safely.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting significantly reduces airflow and sun exposure around the boulders, trapping moisture and dramatically slowing drying compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
- The Roadside Boulders sit low among trees and receive almost no direct sunlight on the NW aspect, meaning they will be the last to dry — potentially days after the Main Crag higher up.
- The Main Crag higher on the hill may benefit from slightly more wind exposure, but the NW aspect means even upper sections won't receive meaningful direct sun until late evening at best.
- Caley's famous slabs and tenuous problems are especially dangerous when damp — reduced friction on gritstone slabs can turn moderate problems into serious ground-fall risks.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on saturated gritstone causes permanent hold breakage and irreversible route damage — Caley's problems are irreplaceable.
- The surface may begin to look dry later today or tomorrow while the interior remains fully saturated — do not be deceived by surface appearance.
- Tomorrow (May 5th) brings further forecast rain of 2.9mm, which will reset any drying progress made today.
Reasoning
18.1mm of rain fell yesterday over many hours (96%+ humidity throughout), thoroughly saturating the porous gritstone; with only ~18 hours of drying since the rain stopped, the rock is certainly still wet internally and likely visibly damp.
Drying since yesterday's rain has been minimal — overnight humidity remained above 93%, winds were light (6–11 km/h), and the NW aspect receives no meaningful direct sun; effective drying has barely begun.
The gritstone will be at or near peak strength loss given the heavy recent saturation; climbing now risks hold breakage and permanent damage to Caley's irreplaceable boulder problems.
Spring conditions in late April/early May mean moderate temperatures but the preceding weeks have been persistently damp (33mm over 28 days), so background moisture levels in the rock are elevated even before yesterday's deluge.
Contributing Factors
7
18.1mm of sustained rain fell on May 3rd over at least 12 hours, thoroughly soaking the porous gritstone through its full depth.
Only approximately 18 hours have passed since rain ceased, with overnight humidity above 93% meaning virtually no effective drying has occurred.
The NW-facing aspect receives negligible direct sunlight, removing the single most effective drying mechanism for saturated rock.
Caley's tree-lined setting blocks wind from reaching the rock surface, significantly slowing evaporative drying.
Cloud is forecast to break this afternoon with humidity dropping to ~60% and light winds, which will begin some surface drying — but this is far too little time to dry 18mm of absorbed water.
33mm of rain over the past 28 days with frequent small showers means the gritstone has had little opportunity to fully dry out, compounding yesterday's soaking.
Winds are forecast at only 4–14 km/h today, insufficient to meaningfully accelerate drying on sheltered woodland boulders.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today — the gritstone is saturated from yesterday's 18mm of heavy rain and needs a minimum of 48–72 hours of dry weather to be safe.
- If conditions remain dry through Tuesday (May 6th), consider visiting Wednesday (May 7th) at the earliest, but check the rock carefully — the woodland setting means drying will be slow.
- Consider alternative non-porous venues in the meantime, such as Yorkshire limestone (Kilnsey, Malham) where wet-rock structural damage is not a concern, though friction will still be reduced.
Do Not Climb
95%
4 days ago
Caley Crags received 18.3mm of heavy rain today with 94% humidity, thoroughly saturating the gritstone. The NW-facing woodland setting will retain this moisture for days, and climbing today or tomorrow would risk permanent damage to holds and routes.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting significantly slows drying — tree canopy blocks what little direct sunlight reaches this NW-facing crag, trapping humid air around the boulders.
- The Roadside Boulders near the road may dry marginally faster than The Main Crag higher up the hill, as the woodland is denser on the upper slopes, but neither area will be dry soon after 18mm of rain.
- Many classic problems here feature tenuous slabs and delicate friction-dependent holds that are especially vulnerable to grain loosening when the gritstone is saturated.
- Seepage and run-off from the hillside above can keep the base of boulders and lower sections damp well beyond what surface appearance suggests, particularly after heavy rain like today's.
Warnings
2
- 18.3mm of rain today has fully saturated the gritstone — climbing now will cause permanent damage to holds and routes.
- The surface may appear dry before the interior has dried sufficiently; do not rely on surface appearance alone at this sheltered NW-facing venue.
Reasoning
With 18.3mm of rain today at 94% humidity, the gritstone will be thoroughly saturated — well above the critical ~1% water saturation threshold at which significant weakening begins.
The NW aspect receives minimal direct sun, and the sheltered woodland setting limits wind penetration despite partial exposure; combined with moderate humidity forecasts (69–83%), meaningful drying will take at least 48–72 hours from when the rain stops.
At full saturation from today's heavy rain, the gritstone could be experiencing 30–50% compressive strength loss, making hold breakage a serious risk — particularly on Caley's friction-dependent slabs and delicate edges.
Spring conditions in late April/early May are improving but still marginal; temperatures around 10–14°C are moderate, and the preceding weeks have been intermittently wet (35.5mm in 28 days), meaning the rock has had limited opportunity to fully dry out between rain events.
Contributing Factors
6
18.3mm of rain today is classified as heavy and will have deeply saturated the porous gritstone, requiring 48–72+ hours of dry weather to recover.
94% humidity today effectively prevents any meaningful evaporative drying from occurring.
The NW-facing, tree-sheltered setting at Caley receives minimal direct sunlight, dramatically slowing drying compared to open, south-facing crags.
19.9mm in the last 7 days and 35.5mm over 28 days means the rock has had limited opportunity to fully dry out between rain events this spring.
Temperatures around 10–14°C over the coming days provide some drying capacity but are not warm enough to accelerate evaporation significantly.
Two consecutive dry days forecast from May 5–6 with lower humidity (~68–69%) and moderate wind should begin to dry the rock, though the NW aspect will slow progress.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today — the rock is thoroughly saturated and climbing would risk permanent hold damage and personal injury.
- Wait until at least May 6th before even considering a visit, and visually assess conditions carefully on arrival; check the ground at the base of boulders is completely dry.
- If conditions remain uncertain, consider south-facing limestone alternatives in the Yorkshire Dales which dry faster and are not damaged by moisture.
Do Not Climb
95%
4 days ago
Caley Crags received nearly 20mm of rain today with 94% humidity — the rock will be thoroughly saturated. The NW aspect, woodland setting, and moderate altitude mean drying will be slow; climbing today is completely out of the question and several days of dry weather are needed before conditions recover.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps moisture and limits airflow, significantly slowing drying times compared to open moorland gritstone edges.
- The Roadside Boulders sit lower in the trees and tend to stay damp longer than The Main Crag higher up the hill, so conditions will vary across the venue.
- The NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock until late afternoon/evening in summer, making the crag one of the slowest-drying gritstone venues in the area.
- Seepage and run-off from the hillside above can keep the base of problems wet even after the rock face itself has dried, particularly on the Main Crag.
Warnings
3
- Gritstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — climbing today risks breaking irreplaceable holds on Caley's classic problems.
- The surface may appear dry before the interior has dried; test by feeling the base of boulders and shaded recesses before committing to climb.
- The woodland floor and mossy areas around the boulders will be extremely slippery after this rain — take care on approach paths.
Reasoning
Today's 19.9mm of rain at 94% humidity will have fully saturated the gritstone — the rock will be holding close to maximum water content, with visible wetness on all surfaces.
With a NW aspect, woodland shelter, and only partial wind exposure, drying from today's heavy soaking will be very slow; moderate temperatures (~11–13°C) and forecast humidity around 72–80% tomorrow offer minimal evaporative drive, and at least 48–72 hours of dry weather are needed.
At near-full saturation the gritstone will have lost 30%+ of its compressive strength, making hold breakage a serious risk — Caley's characteristic small crimps and delicate slab holds are especially vulnerable.
Spring conditions in late April/early May are improving but still marginal for drying at this altitude and aspect; the preceding weeks have been intermittently wet (37mm in 28 days), so background moisture levels in the rock were already elevated before today's heavy rain.
Contributing Factors
6
19.9mm of rain today is a substantial soaking that will have saturated the gritstone throughout, requiring 48–72+ hours of good drying conditions to recover.
Today's 94% humidity and tomorrow's forecast 80% humidity severely limit evaporation, meaning the rock will retain moisture for longer than temperature alone would suggest.
The north-west facing aspect receives minimal direct sun, and the woodland setting traps moist air and blocks wind, making Caley one of the slowest-drying gritstone venues in Yorkshire.
21.5mm in the past 7 days and 37mm over 28 days means background rock moisture was already elevated before today's heavy event.
Partial wind exposure provides some drying assistance but the woodland canopy significantly attenuates airflow at rock level.
Humidity drops to 54–63% from May 6–8 with dry conditions and moderate wind, which should progressively dry the rock over the coming days.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today — the rock is thoroughly saturated and climbing would risk permanent damage to holds and routes.
- Wait until at least May 6 before considering a visit, and even then visually assess the rock and check the base of problems for residual moisture.
- If you need to climb this weekend, consider a non-porous alternative such as limestone at Kilnsey or Malham, where wet-rock ethics are less critical for structural damage.
Do Not Climb
95%
4 days ago
Caley Crags received 20.4mm of heavy rain today with 95% humidity, thoroughly saturating the gritstone. The NW-facing, woodland setting will severely impede drying, and conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing today and for at least the next two days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps moisture and limits airflow, significantly slowing drying compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
- The Roadside Boulders sit lower and closer to the road in denser tree cover, so they will dry even slower than the Main Crag higher up the hill.
- The NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock faces, removing the most effective drying mechanism — on a day like today this extends drying by days.
- Caley's famous tenuous slab problems and delicate holds are particularly vulnerable to wet-rock damage; grain loosening on these friction-dependent problems causes irreversible degradation.
Warnings
3
- 20.4mm of rain has fully saturated the gritstone — climbing today would risk serious hold breakage and permanent route damage.
- Surface-dry appearance can be deeply misleading on gritstone; the interior may remain saturated for days after heavy rain in this sheltered, shaded setting.
- Yorkshire gritstone ethics are clear: do not climb on damp or wet rock — access at Caley is permissive and dependent on responsible behaviour.
Reasoning
20.4mm of rain today at 95% humidity will have fully saturated the porous gritstone well beyond the critical 1% threshold, with the wetting front having penetrated deeply into the rock.
With NW aspect, woodland shelter, moderate wind, and humidity forecast at 80% tomorrow, drying will be extremely slow — expect a minimum of 48–72 hours before even surface drying is achieved.
Gritstone at this saturation level will have lost 30%+ compressive strength; climbing on Caley's characteristic small holds and delicate features risks permanent hold breakage and accelerated erosion.
Spring conditions with moderate temperatures (10–13°C) and variable humidity provide only moderate drying potential; the preceding weeks had intermittent rain keeping background moisture elevated.
Contributing Factors
7
20.4mm of precipitation today has thoroughly saturated the gritstone, requiring a minimum 48–72 hours of good drying conditions.
95% humidity today means essentially no evaporative drying is occurring, prolonging the saturated state.
The north-west facing aspect receives minimal direct sunlight, removing the most powerful drying factor and extending required drying time significantly.
The classic woodland setting traps humid air around the boulders and blocks wind, substantially slowing evaporation.
22mm over the past 7 days and 37.6mm over 28 days means the rock had elevated baseline moisture even before today's heavy rain.
Winds of 18 km/h today and 12–22 km/h forecast provide some airflow but are partially blocked by the woodland, offering limited drying assistance.
From May 5th onward, humidity drops to 54–63% with negligible rain, which will eventually allow proper drying by mid-week.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today — the rock is fully saturated and climbing risks permanent damage to the delicate gritstone holds.
- Wait a minimum of 48–72 hours (until May 6th at earliest) before considering a visit, and even then assess conditions carefully on arrival.
- Check that the ground at the base of boulders is completely dry and sandy before touching the rock — if the ground is damp, the rock is still wet internally.
Do Not Climb
45%
5 days ago
Despite a prolonged dry spell from April 21–May 1, today's 0.8mm rain has broken the streak, and a very heavy 25.8mm event is forecast for tomorrow — conditions are about to deteriorate significantly. The NW-facing woodland setting at Caley will hold moisture for extended periods after the incoming rain, making the next week largely unsuitable for climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps humidity and shields the rock from wind and sun, dramatically slowing drying times compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
- The Roadside Boulders sit lower and closer to the road drainage, often staying damper than The Main Crag higher up the hill — check both areas independently.
- The NW aspect means Caley only receives meaningful direct sunlight on long summer evenings; in early May the sun angle is still relatively low, limiting solar drying on the main faces.
- Seepage lines and mossy patches are common at Caley, particularly on the slabs and lower boulders, and these areas will remain wet long after the main faces appear dry.
Warnings
3
- Heavy rain of 25.8mm is forecast for tomorrow — do not climb on gritstone that has been freshly saturated, even if surfaces appear to dry quickly.
- Caley's tenuous slabs and friction-dependent problems are especially dangerous when damp — holds that feel solid when dry can fail catastrophically on wet gritstone.
- Repeated wet climbing at Caley causes permanent erosion of the soft gritstone; respect the Yorkshire ethic of waiting for dry conditions.
Reasoning
Today's 0.8mm rain has lightly wetted the rock surface, and while the preceding 10-day dry spell (Apr 21–May 1) had allowed good internal drying, the fresh moisture resets the surface condition and the rock cannot be considered fully dry right now.
The prior dry spell with warm temperatures (up to 21.9°C on May 1) and moderate winds provided excellent drying, but the NW aspect and woodland canopy at Caley mean drying is slower than at open south-facing crags — today's rain, though light, has re-wetted surfaces that will need at least 24 hours to dry again, and the massive incoming rain tomorrow will saturate the rock thoroughly.
The gritstone at Caley is particularly vulnerable when wet — tenuous slab holds and friction-dependent problems are at high risk of hold breakage and accelerated erosion if climbed on while damp.
Early May in Yorkshire can still bring cool, damp spells; the incoming unsettled weather pattern with 42mm forecast over the next 6 days is typical of spring variability and will keep conditions poor for most of the coming week.
Contributing Factors
6
0.8mm of precipitation today has broken a 10-day dry streak and re-wetted the rock surface, preventing a 'safe' verdict despite the prior excellent drying period.
25.8mm forecast for May 3 will thoroughly saturate the gritstone and surrounding woodland, requiring 48–72+ hours of dry weather afterward to dry adequately.
Ten consecutive dry days (Apr 21–May 1) with warm temperatures up to 21.9°C allowed significant internal drying of the rock before today's rain.
The north-west facing aspect receives minimal direct sun and the woodland canopy traps humidity, significantly prolonging drying times at Caley compared to open or south-facing crags.
Further rain on May 5 (5.8mm) and May 6 (10.7mm) means the rock will be repeatedly re-wetted before it can dry from tomorrow's heavy rain, extending poor conditions through most of the forecast period.
Winds of 15–23 km/h and temperatures of 10–15°C provide moderate but not exceptional drying potential, and the woodland setting reduces effective wind exposure at rock level.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today or over the coming days — the incoming heavy rain (25.8mm tomorrow) will thoroughly saturate the gritstone and the woodland setting will hold moisture for days.
- Monitor conditions after the unsettled spell ends; the earliest realistic opportunity may be May 8–9 if the dry weather on May 7–8 materialises and is accompanied by good wind.
- If you're keen to climb this week, consider a non-porous alternative such as Almscliff's whinstone or a limestone sport venue that can handle damp conditions without structural damage.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
6 days ago
The crag has had a largely dry spell from April 21–30 with only a trace of rain on April 27, but today's 0.8mm shower and the NW aspect complicate matters. The rock at exposed upper sections may be adequately dry from the preceding dry spell, but sheltered woodland boulders and lower faces could still be holding moisture from today's rain — a visual check on arrival is essential.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting significantly slows drying — the tree canopy traps humidity, reduces airflow, and blocks what little direct sun reaches this NW-facing crag, meaning sheltered boulders can stay damp far longer than open crags.
- The Roadside Boulders sit lower and closer to the road with more tree cover, so they tend to hold moisture longer than the Main Crag higher up the hill which gets slightly better air circulation.
- Caley's gritstone is known for tenuous slab climbing where even slight residual dampness drastically reduces friction on the delicate foot placements these problems demand — this style is especially unforgiving of marginal conditions.
- Seepage can persist on certain problems, particularly where horizontal breaks and overhangs channel water; the backs of roofed boulders and crack lines should be checked individually.
Warnings
2
- Today's rain means zero consecutive dry days — surface conditions must be verified in person before climbing on any gritstone problems.
- Do not climb if rock feels cold to the touch or if you can see any colour change indicating dampness, even on apparently dry-looking faces.
Reasoning
Today's 0.8mm rain has re-wetted surfaces, but the preceding 9-day essentially dry spell (only 0.2mm on April 27) means the rock's internal moisture content was likely low before today's light wetting.
The NW aspect and woodland setting severely limit direct sun and reduce wind effectiveness, but the moderate southerly wind (18 km/h) and warm 21°C temperatures today will aid surface drying from the light shower; however, a full 24 hours of dry weather hasn't yet elapsed since today's rain.
The extended dry spell prior to today reduced internal saturation significantly, so structural risk from today's light 0.8mm shower is low, but gritstone remains vulnerable to grain loosening if any deeper moisture persists in sheltered sections.
Late April/early May is a transitional period — temperatures are now warm enough for reasonable drying (reaching 21°C today), but spring humidity remains moderately high and the woodland canopy is leafing out, further reducing airflow and sun penetration.
Contributing Factors
6
0.8mm of rain today has re-wetted rock surfaces, and insufficient time has elapsed for even light rain to dry on this NW-facing woodland crag.
Nine essentially dry days (April 21–30, only 0.2mm on April 27) allowed the rock to dry out internally after the wetter mid-April period.
The north-west facing aspect receives minimal direct sunlight and the dense woodland setting traps humidity and reduces airflow, significantly slowing drying.
A maximum of 21.4°C is the warmest day in weeks and will accelerate surface evaporation where wind reaches the rock.
Partial wind exposure at 18 km/h from the south provides some drying benefit, though the woodland canopy attenuates this at boulder level.
13.5mm of heavy rain is forecast for May 3 with 90% humidity, which will thoroughly re-saturate the rock and require a substantial drying period afterward.
Recommendations
3
- If visiting today, physically touch-test rock surfaces and check the ground at the base of boulders — if the soil or leaf litter feels damp, assume the rock is too wet to climb.
- Focus on the Main Crag higher up the hill where airflow is better, and avoid sheltered low-lying Roadside Boulders which will hold today's moisture longest.
- Plan to climb before May 3 if possible, as the 13.5mm forecast rain will reset drying conditions and likely require 48–72+ hours of dry weather afterward on this sheltered crag.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
72%
9 days ago
The rock has had two full dry days since the last trace rain (0.2mm on April 27), with the last significant rain being 4.2mm on April 15 — over two weeks ago. Conditions are likely dry, but the NW aspect, woodland setting, and overnight humidity near 90% mean a visual check on arrival is prudent before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps moisture and reduces airflow, meaning the Roadside Boulders in particular can stay greasy longer than the exposed weather data might suggest.
- The NW aspect receives very little direct sun, especially on the lower boulders, so drying relies heavily on wind and ambient temperature rather than solar evaporation.
- The Main Crag higher up the hill is more exposed to wind and dries noticeably faster than the sheltered Roadside Boulders — consider starting there if conditions are borderline.
- Caley's famous slabs and tenuous friction-dependent problems are especially sensitive to residual moisture; even slight dampness can make these unclimbable and dangerous.
Warnings
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- Overnight condensation in the woodland setting may make slabs and friction-dependent problems greasy in the morning — allow time for this to clear before attempting bold highballs.
Reasoning
The last meaningful rain was 4.2mm on April 15, over two weeks ago, with only trace amounts since (0.2mm on April 27); the rock interior should be well dried out from the mid-April wet spell, though overnight humidity reaching 90%+ may leave surface condensation.
Two dry days with moderate easterly winds (15–26 km/h) and temperatures reaching 12–15°C provide reasonable drying conditions, though the NW aspect and woodland shelter limit direct solar drying significantly.
With 18mm of rain spread across the last 28 days and no heavy single-event rainfall recently, structural risk from internal saturation is low; the extended dry spell since April 19 has allowed substantial internal drying.
Late April brings improving temperatures and longer days, but overnight lows near 0°C (0.4°C on April 20, 0.7°C on April 24) have occurred recently — not a freeze-thaw concern at current low saturation levels, but indicative of cool nights that slow drying.
Contributing Factors
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Only 0.2mm of trace rain in the last 10 days, with the last significant rainfall (4.2mm) occurring 14 days ago on April 15, allowing thorough internal drying.
The north-west facing aspect receives minimal direct sunlight, meaning drying depends almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature rather than solar heating.
The classic woodland setting at Caley traps humidity around the boulders and reduces wind penetration, slowing evaporation compared to exposed crags.
Easterly winds of 20–26 km/h today and temperatures reaching ~15°C provide reasonable ambient drying conditions.
Overnight humidity reached 90–92% with temperatures dropping to 5°C, which can deposit surface condensation on cool rock faces, especially in sheltered woodland.
Only 0.2mm in the last 7 days means the rock has not been subjected to any meaningful wetting event recently.
Recommendations
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- Visit in the afternoon when daytime warmth and wind have had time to clear any overnight surface condensation from the rock.
- Prioritise the Main Crag higher up the hill where wind exposure is greater and drying is faster; leave sheltered Roadside Boulders for last.
- Perform a touch test on multiple holds and check the ground at the base of boulders — if soil or leaf litter feels damp, the rock may still hold residual moisture.
Climbing Outlook