Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Angel Bay has received intermittent rain over the past week (14.1mm in 7 days) with no consecutive dry days, and today sees further showers through the afternoon; the north-facing aspect and high humidity (76% average) mean limestone surfaces are likely greasy. The forecast shows continued unsettled weather with rain each day through May 12, making reliable drying unlikely in the near term.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds, which reduces airflow across the north-facing rock and significantly slows drying after rain.
- The cave and roof problems can stay dry overhead during rain, but high ambient humidity (consistently 70–86% forecast) will make limestone holds greasy regardless.
- Seal breeding restriction runs August–December; the crag is currently accessible in May, but always check the latest BMC RAD status before visiting.
- The beach-level approach may be affected by tides and swell — even on a calm day, check tide times as access can be cut off at high water.
Warnings
2
- Limestone will be extremely greasy in current conditions — slip and fall risk is elevated on all angles.
- Seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; always verify current access status before visiting Angel Bay.
Reasoning
With 2.1mm of rain today, 6.2mm on May 3, and scattered showers on May 1–2 and 5–6, the rock has had no meaningful dry spell and surfaces will be damp, especially on the north-facing walls.
The north aspect receives minimal direct sun and the crag is sheltered from prevailing winds, so drying has been very slow; the brief dry window from April 18–30 was interrupted by renewed rain from May 1 onwards.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage is not a primary concern here.
Early May in North Wales is transitional — temperatures are moderate (11–14°C) but humidity remains elevated, and the unsettled Atlantic pattern is delivering frequent light rain with no prolonged drying windows.
Contributing Factors
5
14.1mm over the past 7 days with rain again today (2.1mm forecast), leaving no consecutive dry days to allow proper drying.
Average humidity of 76% over the past week, with forecast humidity rising to 84–86% over the next two days, will keep limestone surfaces greasy.
The north aspect receives negligible direct sun and the sheltered position reduces wind-assisted drying, prolonging moisture retention on the rock.
Overhanging cave problems stay dry from direct rain, but the high humidity will still cause friction loss on holds in these areas.
Rain is forecast every day from May 8–12 (totalling ~10.4mm), with no meaningful dry window emerging until at least May 13.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for a sustained dry spell of at least 2–3 days with humidity below 70% before visiting, as the limestone will remain greasy until then.
- If you do visit, focus only on steep cave and roof problems and be prepared to back off if holds feel slick — carry a towel and brush.
- Check tide times and swell forecasts before committing to the approach, and verify current access status on the BMC RAD.
Previous Analyses
Do Not Climb
40%
2 days ago
Recent rain on May 1–3 (11.4mm), a trace on May 5, and further light rain today (1.8mm) mean the north-facing limestone at Angel Bay has not had adequate drying time. High humidity (74% average over the last week) and the sheltered, north-facing aspect will keep surfaces greasy and pockets damp — we recommend not climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is north-facing and sheltered from prevailing westerlies, meaning it receives virtually no direct sun and dries very slowly after rain — extended dry spells are needed before friction is reliable.
- The cave and roof features that characterise the venue can hold seepage and condensation moisture for days, even when open walls appear dry.
- Angel Bay is a significant grey seal breeding site with access restricted August to December — currently outside the restriction window but always check the BMC RAD for updates.
- The crag sits at sea level on the Little Orme; coastal humidity and salt spray can deposit a thin moisture film on holds even in nominally dry weather, especially with onshore (N/NE) winds.
Warnings
2
- Limestone at Angel Bay becomes dangerously greasy in current damp/humid conditions — fall risk is significantly elevated.
- Light rain is forecast from late afternoon today (17:00 onwards) and intermittently through the coming days, worsening conditions further.
Reasoning
Rain fell on May 1 (3.2mm), May 2 (2.0mm), May 3 (6.2mm), May 5 (0.3mm), and today May 6 (1.8mm), giving the rock barely one full dry day in the last six — the limestone is almost certainly damp, particularly in pockets and cave features.
The north-facing aspect receives no meaningful direct sun, and while moderate easterly winds today aid some surface drying, the sheltered beach setting limits airflow at rock level, so drying since the last rain has been minimal.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, but the greasy surface in current humidity (70%+) poses a significant slip hazard.
Early May in North Wales is transitional — days are lengthening but temperatures remain cool (11–12°C) and spring showers are frequent, limiting sustained drying windows.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 13mm fell between May 1–3 with additional light rain on May 5 and today, leaving the rock insufficiently dried.
The crag receives no direct sunlight and is sheltered from prevailing winds, drastically slowing evaporation.
Average humidity of 74% over the past week and 70% today inhibits surface evaporation and promotes greasy conditions on limestone.
Sea-level location on the Little Orme means salt-laden air and onshore winds (N/NE today and forecast) deposit additional surface moisture.
Hourly data shows no rain and dropping humidity (56–62%) between 10:00 and 16:00, which helps surface drying somewhat.
The 20 km/h easterly wind today provides some airflow across the face, aiding surface evaporation during the dry hours.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 2–3 consecutive dry days with humidity below 65% before visiting — the rock needs sustained drying given its north-facing, sheltered position.
- If you do visit, test friction carefully on lower holds before committing to any route; limestone here will feel greasy even if it looks dry.
- Check the BMC RAD for the latest access notes on Angel Bay, particularly regarding seal activity and any early seasonal closures.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
65%
3 days ago
Angel Bay has had two dry days following 6.2mm of rain on May 3rd, and conditions are improving through today with humidity dropping to the mid-60s this afternoon. However, the north-facing aspect, cave features that retain moisture, and elevated humidity earlier today mean a visual check on arrival is prudent before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's caves and roof problems can hold seepage and condensation long after the last rain, so pockets and tufa features should be individually checked for residual moisture.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun, significantly slowing evaporation — drying relies almost entirely on wind, which is moderate today from the north at ~23 km/h.
- The venue is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, but today's northerly wind should reach the cliff face reasonably well, aiding surface drying.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; the crag is currently within its open access window (May), but always verify current status before visiting.
Warnings
2
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December — verify current access status with NRW or the BMC RAD before any visit.
- Angel Bay requires a steep descent approach; retreat can be problematic if conditions deteriorate or tide rises unexpectedly.
Reasoning
The last significant rain was 6.2mm on May 3rd, followed by two dry days; surface rock is likely drying but cave interiors and pockets may still harbour moisture given the north aspect and recent high humidity.
Two days of drying with moderate northerly wind is reasonable for exposed limestone surfaces, but the north-facing aspect means no solar assistance, and humidity has been 74–80% for much of the period, limiting evaporation rates.
Limestone does not suffer structural damage when damp, so the primary concern is friction loss on greasy holds rather than hold breakage.
Early May in North Wales brings lengthening days and improving conditions, but spring weather remains changeable and maritime humidity from the Irish Sea keeps ambient moisture levels elevated at this coastal venue.
Contributing Factors
6
6.2mm fell on May 3rd with only two full dry days since, which is marginal drying time for a north-facing sheltered limestone venue.
Humidity is 74% daily average but dropping to 61–67% this afternoon, which is borderline acceptable for limestone friction.
The north aspect receives no direct sunlight, meaning drying depends entirely on wind and ambient temperature — significantly slower than a south-facing crag.
Moderate northerly wind at 23 km/h will reach this north-facing cliff directly, helping to strip surface moisture through the day.
Humidity drops below 68% from 14:00–18:00 with clearing skies, creating the best friction window of the day.
Cave and roof features characteristic of Angel Bay trap humidity and seepage, and these areas may remain greasy even when open wall sections feel dry.
Recommendations
3
- Target the afternoon window (14:00–18:00) when humidity is lowest and surfaces will have had maximum drying time.
- Test friction carefully on the first few moves before committing — limestone here can feel deceptively dry on the surface while remaining greasy.
- Avoid deep cave and roof problems today as these features retain moisture longest; open wall routes are more likely to be in condition.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
4 days ago
Angel Bay received 6.2mm of rain yesterday (May 3rd) in the early hours, and with only one dry day elapsed, the north-facing limestone is likely still carrying residual surface moisture. Humidity has been high (79% today) and the afternoon is clearing with some sun breaks, so conditions may improve through the day — but on-site assessment is essential before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is north-facing and sheltered from prevailing westerlies by the Little Orme headland, meaning it receives very little direct sunlight and dries significantly slower than south-facing limestone venues nearby.
- The caves and roof problems can remain greasy long after the walls appear dry, as humidity lingers in enclosed spaces and pockets trap seepage.
- As a sea-level venue, salt-laden coastal humidity adds a persistent moisture film to holds even on nominally dry days, particularly with onshore NE winds like today.
- Grey seal breeding restriction runs August–December; the venue is currently open (May) but climbers should verify current access status before visiting as early pupping has occasionally been reported.
Warnings
2
- Limestone becomes extremely greasy with residual moisture — a surface that looks dry can still have dramatically reduced friction, posing a serious fall risk on steep or technical routes.
- Check current grey seal access status before visiting; while the formal restriction is Aug–Dec, early arrivals are possible and should be respected.
Reasoning
6.2mm fell in the early hours of May 3rd and today (May 4th) is the first dry day, but humidity remains high at 79% with only moderate NE wind — the north-facing limestone is likely still damp in sheltered areas, pockets, and cave features.
Only ~18 hours of drying since the last rain, with overcast skies, no direct sun on the north face, and moderate 15.8 km/h NE wind providing some airflow; this is insufficient for confident full drying of a north-facing coastal limestone venue.
Limestone does not suffer structural damage when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern — the primary risk is greasy friction leading to slips.
Early May is within the spring improvement window and the venue is outside the Aug–Dec seal breeding restriction; however, spring humidity and unsettled weather patterns mean drying windows are unreliable.
Contributing Factors
7
6.2mm fell in the early hours of May 3rd with only one dry day since, insufficient for confident drying of a sheltered north-facing coastal venue.
Humidity has averaged 79% today and 72% over the last week, which significantly slows evaporation and makes limestone greasy.
The north face receives virtually no direct sun, making it one of the slowest-drying aspects and keeping surface moisture locked in.
Cloud cover drops to 0% by late afternoon with humidity falling to 72–73%, offering a potential window of improved friction from mid-afternoon.
NE winds at 15.8 km/h provide some airflow over the north face, aiding surface evaporation even without direct sun.
The caves and roof problems that characterise Angel Bay trap humid air and seepage, remaining greasy longer than open walls.
11.4mm over the last 7 days and 35.2mm over 28 days indicate a persistently wet period with limited extended dry spells for thorough drying.
Recommendations
3
- If visiting today, wait until mid-to-late afternoon (after 14:00) when humidity drops and cloud clears — test friction carefully on lower holds before committing to anything ambitious.
- Focus on open wall routes rather than cave or roof features, as enclosed areas will retain moisture and grease for longer.
- Bring a towel and brush to test holds; if limestone feels even slightly slick or waxy underfoot on the approach, conditions are not good enough for steep or technical climbing.
Do Not Climb
75%
4 days ago
Angel Bay received 6.2mm of rain today with very high humidity (88%) and a north wind blowing directly onto the north-facing crag, meaning the rock will be wet and greasy right now. Although there was a good dry spell from April 18–30, the recent return of rain (11.4mm in the last 7 days) combined with today's soaking and high humidity makes limestone friction unreliable.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's north-facing aspect means it receives virtually no direct sun to aid drying, and today's north wind will be pushing moisture directly onto the rock face.
- The cave and roof features at Angel Bay can remain sheltered from direct rain but will still suffer from the very high ambient humidity (88%), making holds greasy even where apparently dry.
- Limestone seepage lines on the Little Orme headland can reactivate after cumulative wet spells — the 11.4mm over the past week following earlier April rain will likely produce weeping on some routes.
- Seal breeding restrictions run August to December, so the crag is currently accessible, but climbers should still check for any early-season wildlife notices from NRW or BMC RAD.
Warnings
2
- Limestone at Angel Bay will be extremely slippery today due to active rain and 88% humidity — climbing would pose a serious fall risk.
- Seepage lines may be active on routes below the headland plateau following 11.4mm of rain in the past week.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly wet from today's 6.2mm of rain, compounded by 88% humidity and no drying window since the precipitation.
North-facing aspect at low altitude with a north wind provides no solar drying benefit; partial wind exposure offers some airflow but the wind direction today is pushing moist air directly into the crag.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern, but surface friction is severely compromised under these conditions.
Early May in North Wales is a transitional period with frequent Atlantic fronts; humidity tends to remain elevated and overnight dew is common, slowing drying on north-facing rock.
Contributing Factors
7
Significant rainfall today means the rock surface is currently wet and will need at least a full dry day to shed surface moisture.
Humidity at 88% will keep limestone feeling greasy and prevent effective evaporative drying even on sheltered surfaces.
The north-facing orientation receives no direct sunlight, severely limiting natural drying potential.
Today's north wind blows moisture-laden air directly onto the cliff face rather than aiding evaporation.
Over 11mm in the past 7 days means subsurface seepage and pocket moisture are likely still active.
A 12-day dry spell from April 18–30 means deep seepage had largely cleared before the recent rain returned.
At 10m altitude there is no freeze-thaw concern, but coastal humidity and salt moisture can linger on surfaces.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock is wet from 6.2mm of rain and extreme humidity makes limestone dangerously greasy.
- Consider visiting from May 5th or 6th after two consecutive dry days with dropping humidity, but visually inspect the rock on arrival.
- Check the BMC RAD and NRW notices for any updated access information, and be aware that seal breeding restrictions begin in August.
Do Not Climb
88%
4 days ago
Angel Bay is currently wet from today's 6.4mm of rain with very high humidity (88%) and a north wind blowing directly onto this north-facing crag. The limestone will be greasy and potentially still actively wet — conditions are unsuitable for climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds but today's northerly wind blows directly into the north-facing cliff, driving moisture onto the rock face and inhibiting drying.
- The cave and roof features at Angel Bay can retain seepage and drip for extended periods after rain, and the recent wet spell (11.6mm in the last 7 days) will have recharged these seepage lines.
- The venue sits at sea level on the Little Orme headland, so salt humidity and sea-spray compound the high atmospheric humidity, making limestone surfaces especially greasy.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions run August–December; the crag is currently accessible in May, but climbers should always verify current access status with NRW or the BMC RAD before visiting.
Warnings
2
- Rock will be extremely greasy today — limestone friction drops dramatically at 88% humidity even without visible water.
- Seepage from the headland above may persist for 2–3 days after this wet spell, particularly in cave features and crack lines.
Reasoning
Today saw 6.4mm of rain with 88% humidity on a north-facing crag, meaning the rock surface is almost certainly still wet or at minimum heavily damp and greasy.
With the wind coming from the north — directly onto this north-facing aspect — and very high humidity, there has been essentially no effective drying today; the crag will need at least one full dry day with lower humidity before surfaces are climbable.
Limestone does not suffer structural damage when wet, but the greasy surface conditions create a serious slip hazard, particularly on the polished holds typical of a well-trafficked beach venue.
Spring conditions in North Wales remain changeable; the recent pattern shows a prolonged wet spell from early April through mid-April followed by a good dry spell, but the last three days have brought fresh rain that has reset drying progress.
Contributing Factors
6
6.4mm of precipitation today means the rock is actively wet or very recently wet with no drying window.
Humidity at 88% today prevents evaporation and keeps limestone surfaces greasy even where not directly rained on.
Today's northerly wind drives moisture directly onto the north-facing cliff rather than aiding drying.
11.6mm over the past 7 days including 5.2mm in the last two days has recharged seepage lines in the limestone caves and features.
Angel Bay is described as sheltered from prevailing westerlies, meaning the hidden beach setting limits overall air circulation needed for drying.
At 10m and sea-level, the crag avoids altitude-related cold but is exposed to coastal humidity and salt moisture.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock will be wet and greasy from this morning's rain and the extreme humidity.
- Wait for at least one full dry day with humidity dropping below 70% before visiting; the forecast suggests May 6th could be the earliest viable window.
- When conditions improve, prioritise the steeper cave and roof features which may have stayed drier, but check for seepage drips before committing.
Do Not Climb
88%
4 days ago
Angel Bay is currently wet from today's 5.2mm of rain with very high humidity (88%) and a north wind blowing directly onto this north-facing crag. The limestone will be greasy and unsafe for climbing; conditions need at least a day or two of drying before attempting any routes.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's north-facing aspect means the 14.4 km/h northerly wind today is blowing moisture directly onto the rock face, compounding the rain and high humidity.
- The cave and roof features that characterise Angel Bay can retain seepage and condensation for extended periods after rain, especially in humid conditions above 80%.
- The crag is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds, which limits its ability to dry quickly when winds shift back to their typical direction.
- Seal breeding access restrictions begin in August — currently outside the restricted period, but climbers should verify current access status with the BMC or local notices before visiting.
Warnings
2
- Limestone becomes extremely slippery when damp — even light moisture or high humidity can cause dangerous friction loss on holds.
- Significant grey seal breeding site — access is restricted August to December; always check current access notices before visiting.
Reasoning
Today's 5.2mm rain on top of 5.2mm over the previous two days, combined with 88% humidity, means the rock surface is currently wet and greasy.
The north-facing aspect receives minimal direct sun and today's northerly wind drives moisture onto the crag rather than aiding drying, so negligible drying has occurred today.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, but the surface friction loss on damp limestone is severe and poses a significant slip hazard.
Spring conditions in North Wales remain unpredictable with frequent showers; the recent wet spell (10.4mm in 7 days) has kept background moisture levels elevated.
Contributing Factors
6
5.2mm of precipitation today means the rock is actively wet right now.
88% humidity ensures limestone surfaces remain greasy even where not directly rained on, with condensation likely in caves and under roofs.
The 14.4 km/h northerly wind is blowing directly onto this north-facing crag, driving moisture onto the rock rather than drying it.
10.4mm over the past 7 days with rain on three of the last three days keeps background moisture elevated and seepage lines active.
The crag's sheltered position limits wind-driven drying from the prevailing direction, slowing recovery after wet weather.
The 10m altitude avoids upland cloud and frost issues but coastal humidity and sea spray can add to moisture on the rock.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock is actively wet and greasy; wait for drying conditions.
- Monitor conditions from May 6th onwards when humidity drops to ~60% with a strong easterly wind, which should provide the best drying window this week.
- When visiting, check current seal breeding access status and BMC RAD for any bird nesting restrictions on the Little Orme.
Do Not Climb
45%
5 days ago
Angel Bay received rain today (1.2mm) and yesterday (3.2mm), with humidity at 82% and light winds — the north-facing limestone will be greasy and conditions are not suitable for climbing. Tomorrow brings further rain (2.2mm) and 90% humidity, so conditions are unlikely to improve in the short term.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's north-facing aspect receives minimal direct sun, meaning the recent rain from today and yesterday will linger on the limestone surfaces far longer than at south-facing venues.
- The sheltered beach setting beneath the Little Orme reduces airflow compared to exposed headland crags, and today's light 10 km/h easterly wind provides minimal drying assistance.
- Cave and roof features — a key draw of this venue — trap humidity and can remain greasy even when open walls appear dry, making friction unreliable in current 82% humidity.
- Seal breeding restrictions begin in August; access is currently permitted, but climbers should check the latest BMC RAD and local guidance as early closures occasionally apply.
Warnings
2
- Limestone at Angel Bay will be extremely greasy in current high-humidity, post-rain conditions — falls on slippery holds are a serious risk.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; always verify current access status before visiting.
Reasoning
Rain fell today (1.2mm) and yesterday (3.2mm) after a long dry spell, and with 82% humidity the north-facing limestone surfaces will be damp and greasy.
The north aspect and light 10 km/h easterly wind provide very poor drying potential; meaningful surface drying is unlikely within the next 24 hours given the forecast of further rain and 90% humidity tomorrow.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so the concern is entirely about friction loss and climber safety on greasy holds.
Spring conditions in North Wales are unpredictable; while the extended dry spell from mid-April was excellent, the current return to unsettled weather with high humidity is typical and demands patience.
Contributing Factors
6
3.2mm fell yesterday and 1.2mm today, ending a lengthy dry spell and leaving surfaces wet on this north-facing crag.
Current humidity of 82% will make limestone extremely greasy, particularly on the shaded north-facing walls and cave features.
Today's 10 km/h easterly is the lightest wind in weeks and provides negligible drying assistance to the sheltered bay.
The north aspect receives essentially no direct sun, so evaporative drying relies entirely on wind and ambient temperature, both of which are unfavourable today.
The 12-day dry spell from April 18–30 means the rock was thoroughly dry before this recent rain, reducing the likelihood of deep seepage issues.
2.2mm forecast for May 3 with 90% humidity will reset any drying progress and keep surfaces greasy.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least until May 5 or 6 when a sustained dry spell with lower humidity and stronger winds should improve conditions significantly.
- If visiting the area, consider south-facing or well-exposed alternative venues that will dry faster in current conditions.
- Check the BMC Regional Access Database for any early seal breeding closures before planning a visit.
Do Not Climb
45%
6 days ago
Today's 3.6mm of rain has broken a 12-day dry spell, and with 70% humidity and limited wind, the north-facing limestone at Angel Bay will be greasy. The extended prior dry period means underlying rock is well-dried, but surface moisture and humidity make friction unreliable today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces airflow and slows surface drying after rain — today's SW wind will be partially blocked.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun in spring, meaning today's rain will linger on rock surfaces well into the evening.
- Cave and roof problems at Angel Bay can stay dry during light rain but become extremely greasy when humidity rises, as is the case today at 70% and forecast to rise to 80% tomorrow.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions run August–December; April/May access should be clear, but always check current status with NRW or local notices before descending to the beach.
Warnings
2
- Limestone becomes extremely slippery when damp — even a thin moisture film can cause unexpected foot slips on slabs and walls.
- Access to Angel Bay involves a steep descent; wet conditions make the approach more hazardous as well as the climbing itself.
Reasoning
Today's 3.6mm of rain on a north-facing, partially sheltered limestone venue means surface moisture is present and friction will be significantly compromised.
Despite a strong 12-day dry spell prior to today, the current rain combined with only moderate SW wind (partially blocked by the headland) and no direct sun on the north face means drying will be slow through the rest of the day.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold integrity is not a concern — the issue is purely friction and safety.
Spring conditions in North Wales are improving but unpredictable; humidity levels are moderate-to-high and the forecast suggests further unsettled weather through the coming days.
Contributing Factors
6
3.6mm of rain today has wetted all surfaces, ending a 12-day dry spell and making limestone greasy.
The north face receives no meaningful direct sunlight in spring, so surface moisture from today's rain will persist.
Twelve consecutive dry days before today means the rock was thoroughly dried out, with no deep seepage issues.
Humidity at 70% today and forecast to rise to 80% tomorrow reduces friction on limestone even where surfaces appear dry.
The venue is sheltered from prevailing SW winds by the headland, reducing the airflow that would otherwise help dry surfaces.
19.4 km/h wind provides some drying potential, but its effectiveness is reduced by the sheltered position and unfavourable direction.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least 24 hours for today's rain to dry before attempting routes; the north-facing limestone will remain greasy through the day.
- If visiting in the coming days, prioritise the steeper cave and roof features which may have stayed driest, but test friction carefully before committing to moves.
- Check current grey seal access restrictions and BMC RAD for any bird nesting closures before planning your visit.
Likely Safe to Climb
85%
9 days ago
Angel Bay has enjoyed 12 consecutive dry days with declining humidity and a brisk easterly breeze today, leaving limestone surfaces well-dried and friction conditions excellent. Today offers some of the best conditions seen this spring, though the north-facing aspect and coastal setting always warrant a quick visual check on arrival.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, but today's easterly wind will funnel directly into the crag, providing excellent surface drying — an unusually favourable scenario for this venue.
- The caves and roof features at Angel Bay can retain seepage and humidity-driven condensation even during dry spells; deeper cave sections may still feel slightly greasy despite 12 dry days.
- As a north-facing sea-cliff at just 10m altitude, Angel Bay receives virtually no direct sun — drying depends almost entirely on wind and ambient humidity rather than solar heating.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; April visits are within the permitted access window, but always check the latest BMC RAD and local notices before descending.
Warnings
1
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; always check BMC RAD and local signage for any temporary access changes.
Reasoning
Twelve consecutive dry days with the last rain (0.4mm) on April 17 means surface limestone should be thoroughly dry, and even deeper seepage lines have had ample time to drain.
Despite the north-facing aspect limiting solar drying, moderate-to-strong easterly winds (15–29 km/h) over the past week combined with humidity dropping to 54–60% have provided effective air-drying of all exposed surfaces.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern; the primary risk is friction loss from greasy surfaces, which is minimal given current dry, low-humidity conditions.
Late April is an improving period for North Wales sea-cliff climbing with lengthening days and generally drier spells, though spring showers can arrive quickly off the Irish Sea.
Contributing Factors
6
Twelve consecutive dry days with only trace precipitation in the last two weeks have allowed thorough drying of all limestone surfaces.
Humidity at 59% today with a drop to 53% forecast tomorrow is excellent for limestone friction, well below the threshold where greasiness becomes a concern.
Today's 28 km/h easterly wind blows directly into this normally sheltered north-facing crag, providing unusually effective surface drying.
The north-facing orientation means negligible direct solar heating, but this is offset by the strong wind and extended dry period.
Overnight humidity peaked at 91% which could have deposited light condensation, but morning wind and falling daytime humidity will clear this quickly.
Deep cave and roof sections at Angel Bay can trap moisture and condensation even in dry spells, though 12 dry days significantly reduces this risk.
Recommendations
3
- Climb with confidence on exposed walls and arêtes but test friction on deep cave holds before committing to harder moves, as these sheltered features dry last.
- Take advantage of today's and tomorrow's low humidity and easterly wind — conditions deteriorate from May 1st with rising humidity and light rain forecast.
- Verify current access status via BMC RAD before visiting; while April is outside the August–December seal breeding restriction, local notices may apply.
Climbing Outlook