CountyEthics

Trollers Gill

Limestone · Sheltered exposure · 300m altitude

Marginal — assess

Condition Analysis

AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history

1d ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
50%
confidence

The gorge has had three dry days (May 4–6) following a significant 18mm deluge on May 3, but the sheltered, enclosed nature of Trollers Gill means drying is slow, and today's light rain plus high overnight humidity add uncertainty. A dry window exists this afternoon (roughly 10:00–21:00) with humidity dropping to the low 60s, but climbers should visually check holds for residual seepage before committing.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • The enclosed gorge acts as a humidity trap — even after surface rain stops, moisture lingers on walls far longer than at open crags, especially on the lower sections.
  • The 18mm rainfall on May 3 was the heaviest single-day event in weeks and will have saturated seepage lines in the gorge; three days of drying in a sheltered east-facing gorge at 300m is marginal.
  • East-facing walls only receive morning sun, which is blocked by 100% cloud cover today — UV and solar drying are minimal.
  • Overhanging routes in the lower gorge dry fastest and may offer the best friction today; vertical and slabby walls are more likely to retain dampness.
Warnings 2
  • Limestone becomes extremely greasy when damp — even a thin moisture film invisible to the eye can cause unexpected slips on technical routes.
  • Rain is forecast to return from late tonight (0.6mm after 22:00) and 8.5mm tomorrow; today's afternoon window may be the last reasonable opportunity for several days.
Reasoning
Moisture State

The heavy 18mm rain on May 3 likely saturated seepage lines in the enclosed gorge, and while three subsequent dry days have helped, the sheltered aspect, high average humidity (79%), and cool temperatures (avg 8.4°C) mean pockets and tufa features may still hold residual moisture.

Drying Analysis

With an east aspect receiving only morning sun (blocked by overcast skies today), sheltered wind exposure limiting airflow into the gorge, and humidity rarely dropping below 60%, drying has been sluggish — probably adequate for overhanging faces but insufficient for vertical seepage-prone walls.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage from moisture is not a concern here.

Seasonal Factors

Early May at 300m in the Dales means cool temperatures and variable weather; conditions are improving seasonally but not yet reliable, and a wet spell is forecast from tomorrow.

Contributing Factors 7
Heavy rain on May 3
85%

18mm in a single day will have saturated the gorge's seepage lines and pockets, requiring extended drying in this sheltered venue.

Three dry days since
75%

May 4–6 were dry, allowing some surface drying, though the sheltered gorge and high humidity limit the effectiveness.

High ambient humidity
80%

Average humidity over the past week is 79%, inhibiting evaporation and keeping limestone surfaces greasy.

Afternoon dry window today
70%

Humidity drops to 61–64% between 10:00 and 19:00 with no rain, offering the best friction window of the day.

Sheltered enclosed gorge
90%

The gorge traps humid air and shields walls from wind, dramatically slowing drying compared to open limestone venues.

Rain returning tomorrow
80%

8.5mm forecast for May 8 followed by further rain on May 9–11 means conditions will deteriorate and not improve for several days.

Overcast skies limit solar drying
85%

100% cloud cover through most of today prevents any direct solar warming of the east-facing walls.

Recommendations 3
  • If climbing today, target the overhanging lower sections which dry fastest — visually inspect and touch-test holds before committing, especially pockets and horizontal breaks.
  • Avoid vertical and slabby walls where residual seepage from the May 3 rain is most likely to linger.
  • Consider postponing until after the upcoming wet spell clears — the forecast shows rain through May 11, so conditions are unlikely to be good again until mid-May at the earliest.

Previous Analyses

Marginal — Assess Conditions 62%
2 days ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
62%
confidence

Three consecutive dry days following 18mm of rain on May 3rd have allowed some drying, but the sheltered, enclosed gorge at Trollers Gill retains moisture far longer than open crags; humidity has remained elevated and temperatures modest. Today's afternoon window (humidity dropping to ~53%) offers the best friction opportunity, but pockets and seepage lines may still be damp — visual inspection on arrival is essential.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • The enclosed gorge traps humidity and blocks wind, meaning drying after the heavy 18mm event on May 3rd will be significantly slower than at an open limestone venue.
  • East-facing walls receive only morning sun, which is partially blocked by the narrow gorge walls — effective solar drying is limited to a few hours at best.
  • Glacially polished limestone surfaces become exceptionally slippery with even thin moisture films, making residual dampness a greater friction concern than on rougher limestone.
  • Overhanging lower sections and steeper walls will have dried fastest and are the most likely to offer acceptable conditions today.
Warnings 2
  • Glacially polished limestone in the gorge becomes extremely slippery with even a thin moisture film — test friction on lower holds before committing to routes.
  • Significant rain is forecast May 9–10 (20mm+), which will reset drying and likely leave the gorge wet for several days afterwards.
Reasoning
Moisture State

The 18mm deluge on May 3rd saturated the gorge, and despite three dry days since, the sheltered position, moderate altitude, and average humidity of 77% over the last week mean pockets and seepage zones are likely still holding moisture.

Drying Analysis

Three dry days with an east-facing, sheltered aspect and light-to-moderate winds provide only marginal drying; the gorge's enclosed microclimate significantly impedes airflow and solar exposure compared to open crags.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, but glacially polished surfaces lose friction dramatically when damp, creating a serious slip hazard.

Seasonal Factors

Early May in the Yorkshire Dales brings cool temperatures (~9°C average) and variable weather; conditions are improving but spring showers remain frequent, and overnight near-frost slows evaporation.

Contributing Factors 6
Heavy rain on May 3rd
85%

18mm of rain three days ago would have thoroughly wetted the gorge interior, and the enclosed setting retains this moisture.

Three consecutive dry days
80%

No significant precipitation since May 3rd has allowed some surface drying, particularly on steeper and overhanging rock.

Sheltered gorge microclimate
90%

The enclosed gorge blocks wind and limits sun penetration, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to open limestone crags.

Afternoon low humidity today
75%

Humidity drops to around 53% from late morning through the afternoon, offering a window of improved friction on exposed surfaces.

Incoming rain tomorrow
80%

2mm forecast for May 7th followed by heavier rain May 9–10 means today may be the last reasonable window for several days.

Cool spring temperatures
70%

Average temperatures around 9°C slow evaporation and extend drying times for sheltered rock features.

Recommendations 3
  • If visiting today, focus on overhanging and steep sections which will have dried fastest — check holds carefully before committing to any route.
  • Avoid slab and lower-angle routes where thin moisture films on polished limestone create dangerous friction loss.
  • Consider postponing if the gorge floor and lower walls appear damp on arrival — conditions will not improve again until after the May 9–10 rain clears.
Marginal — Assess Conditions 55%
3 days ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
confidence

Heavy rain on May 3rd (18mm) followed by only ~1.5 dry days means this enclosed, sheltered gorge is likely still holding residual moisture in pockets and seepage lines. A morning window today (10:00–13:00) with lower humidity (~60–66%) offers the best chance, but on-site inspection is essential — overhanging sections may be climbable while vertical walls could still be greasy.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Trollers Gill's enclosed gorge geometry traps humid air and dramatically slows drying compared to open limestone crags — the 18mm on May 3rd will linger in the gorge environment.
  • East-facing walls will have caught morning sun on May 4th and today, which helps surface drying on the upper walls, but the narrow gorge floor and lower walls remain shaded for most of the day.
  • Glacially polished limestone surfaces here become exceptionally slippery with even a thin moisture film — the smooth, curved walls offer less natural texture for friction than rough limestone.
  • Seepage lines are common in the gorge after wet spells; even if the surface appears dry, water percolating through the limestone above can produce localised wet patches for days after heavy rain.
Warnings 2
  • The glacially polished limestone in Trollers Gill becomes dangerously greasy with even slight dampness — test holds carefully before committing, especially on slabby or vertical terrain.
  • Seepage from the gorge walls may persist for several days after the May 3rd downpour; be prepared to bail if wet patches are encountered on your chosen route.
Reasoning
Moisture State

The 18mm deluge on May 3rd saturated the gorge, and with only one full dry day since (May 4th) plus high overnight humidity (89–99%), the enclosed gorge is likely still holding moisture in pockets, seepage lines, and shaded lower walls.

Drying Analysis

The sheltered, east-facing gorge gets limited direct sun and wind penetration, so drying has been slow despite the NE breeze today; the brief morning sun window and moderate wind aloft are helping upper walls but the gorge interior will lag significantly.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern, but the glacially polished surfaces become dangerously slippery with residual moisture.

Seasonal Factors

Early May in the Yorkshire Dales at 300m means cool temperatures (~10°C daytime) which slow evaporation, and overnight near-frost conditions can produce condensation on cold rock surfaces in the early morning.

Contributing Factors 7
Recent heavy rainfall
90%

18mm fell on May 3rd — a significant deluge for an enclosed gorge — with only ~1.5 dry days of recovery since.

Sheltered gorge drying rate
85%

The enclosed, narrow gorge severely limits wind penetration and sun exposure, meaning drying takes considerably longer than at open crags.

High overnight humidity
80%

Humidity reached 89–93% overnight and in early morning, potentially depositing condensation on cold limestone surfaces.

Midday low humidity window
75%

Humidity drops to 60–66% between 10:00 and 13:00 today, providing the best friction window before conditions deteriorate in the afternoon.

Improving drying forecast
80%

Tomorrow and the next few days forecast dry weather with dropping humidity (63%), which will progressively improve conditions.

Cool temperatures slow evaporation
70%

Average temps around 10°C and overnight near-frost at 300m altitude slow the evaporation of trapped moisture in the gorge.

Easterly wind on east aspect
50%

Today's NE wind may channel partially into the east-facing gorge entrance, aiding surface drying on exposed faces.

Recommendations 3
  • If visiting today, arrive for the 10:00–13:00 window when humidity is lowest (~60%) and carefully test friction on lower holds before committing to routes.
  • Prioritise the overhanging and steeper sections which shed water fastest; avoid vertical slabs and pocket-heavy routes where moisture lingers.
  • Consider waiting until May 6th or 7th when continued dry weather and lower humidity (63–67%) will give the gorge significantly more drying time.
Do Not Climb 35%
4 days ago
Today
Do Not Climb
35%
confidence

Yesterday's heavy rain (18mm) saturated the enclosed gorge, and today's high humidity and sheltered aspect mean the rock will still be damp and greasy. Even though conditions improve through the afternoon, insufficient drying time has elapsed for this moisture-retentive venue.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Trollers Gill is an enclosed, narrow gorge where air circulation is minimal — surface moisture and seepage linger far longer than at open limestone crags, often requiring 2–3 dry days after significant rain.
  • The east-facing walls receive only morning sun, which today is blocked by 90%+ cloud cover until late afternoon; meaningful solar drying will not occur.
  • Glacially polished limestone surfaces become exceptionally slippery with even a thin moisture film — the smooth, curved walls here are more friction-sensitive than rougher limestone venues.
  • Pockets, horizontal breaks, and the gorge floor will still be holding water from yesterday's 18mm deluge; seepage lines within the gorge can persist for days after heavy rain.
Warnings 2
  • The glacially polished limestone will be extremely greasy today — climbing would pose a serious slip/fall risk.
  • Seepage lines within the gorge may persist for several days after 18mm of rain; do not assume dry-looking rock is truly dry.
Reasoning
Moisture State

18mm of rain fell yesterday with humidity at 94%, followed by overnight drizzle and near-saturated conditions (95–99% humidity) — the rock surfaces throughout the gorge will be wet or damp.

Drying Analysis

The sheltered gorge position, east aspect with overcast skies, and light winds (under 10 km/h through the morning) provide almost no drying capacity; meaningful drying will only begin late afternoon as humidity drops to ~60% and skies partially clear.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural damage when wet, but the glacially polished surfaces will be dangerously slippery with residual moisture reducing friction to unsafe levels.

Seasonal Factors

Early May in the Yorkshire Dales at 300m means cool temperatures (averaging ~10°C) and slow evaporation rates; spring conditions are improving but this recent wet spell has kept everything saturated.

Contributing Factors 6
Heavy rain yesterday
95%

18mm fell on May 3rd with persistent light rain throughout the day, thoroughly wetting all surfaces in the gorge.

Enclosed gorge retains moisture
90%

The narrow, sheltered gorge restricts airflow and sunlight penetration, dramatically slowing drying compared to open crags.

High residual humidity
90%

Overnight humidity was 95–99% and remains above 80% through the morning, preventing evaporation and keeping surfaces greasy.

Afternoon improvement possible
70%

Humidity drops to ~60% by late afternoon with partial clearing, but this is insufficient time to dry the gorge after yesterday's soaking.

Light winds in gorge
85%

Winds are light (under 10 km/h) through the morning and the sheltered gorge position further reduces any drying breeze.

Polished limestone friction risk
90%

Glacially polished surfaces lose friction dramatically with even minor dampness, making technical climbing hazardous.

Recommendations 3
  • Wait at least 1–2 full dry days before visiting; the gorge needs sustained low-humidity conditions to dry after yesterday's heavy rain.
  • If visiting mid-week (May 6–7), check the overhanging lower sections first as these dry fastest — but still expect damp pockets and seepage.
  • Consider nearby open, south-facing limestone alternatives that will dry significantly faster than this enclosed gorge.
Do Not Climb 92%
4 days ago
Today
Do Not Climb
92%
confidence

Today has seen 18mm of rain with 94% humidity — the gorge will be thoroughly wet and greasy. The enclosed, sheltered nature of Trollers Gill means this heavy rainfall will take significantly longer to dry than an open crag, and conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing today.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Trollers Gill is a deeply enclosed gorge where air circulation is minimal, meaning humidity lingers and drying is dramatically slower than at open limestone venues — expect at least 24–48 hours of drying after today's 18mm downpour.
  • The glacially polished limestone surfaces become exceptionally slippery when damp, and the smooth, curved walls offer little natural drainage compared to rougher-textured limestone.
  • Seepage lines are common on the gorge walls after sustained wet periods — the last two weeks have delivered over 20mm, and today's heavy rain will recharge these seepage features.
  • The east-facing aspect means only morning sun reaches the walls; in early May this provides limited drying energy, especially given the gorge's depth and narrow profile.
Warnings 2
  • 18mm of rain today makes all routes in the gorge unsafe due to wet, greasy limestone.
  • The enclosed gorge retains moisture far longer than weather data alone might suggest — do not assume the rock is dry simply because rain has stopped.
Reasoning
Moisture State

With 18mm of rain today at 94% humidity, the rock surfaces throughout the gorge will be saturated and actively wet, with water running down the walls and pooling in pockets.

Drying Analysis

The sheltered, enclosed gorge with east-only aspect and light-to-moderate winds will dry very slowly — realistically needing at least 36–48 hours of dry weather with lower humidity before surfaces feel genuinely dry.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural damage from moisture, but the glacially polished surfaces become dangerously slippery, and any residual dampness in pockets or on smooth holds will severely compromise friction.

Seasonal Factors

Early May in the Yorkshire Dales brings moderate temperatures but still-short effective drying windows; the recent wet spell (20mm in the last week alone) has kept background moisture levels high.

Contributing Factors 6
Heavy rain today
97%

18mm of precipitation today has thoroughly soaked the gorge walls, pockets, and floor.

Extreme humidity 94%
95%

Near-saturation humidity prevents any evaporative drying and makes limestone surfaces greasy even where not directly wet.

Sheltered enclosed gorge
93%

The narrow gorge traps moist air and receives minimal wind, dramatically slowing drying compared to open crags.

Recent wet period
88%

Over 20mm in the past 7 days and 53.5mm in the past 28 days means the gorge has had little chance to fully dry out before today's deluge.

East aspect limited sun
85%

East-facing walls receive only morning sun, providing limited solar drying energy especially within the deep gorge.

Improving forecast ahead
75%

Tomorrow is forecast dry with dropping humidity (84%), and the next 6 days show only 1.6mm total, suggesting conditions will gradually improve.

Recommendations 3
  • Do not climb today — the gorge will be thoroughly wet and dangerously greasy.
  • Allow at least 36–48 hours of dry weather before visiting; the earliest realistic window is Tuesday 5th May, but inspect conditions on arrival.
  • When you do visit, test friction on lower holds before committing — the polished limestone can feel deceptively dry while still being greasy.
Do Not Climb 92%
4 days ago
Today
Do Not Climb
92%
confidence

Trollers Gill received 20.7mm of heavy rain today with 94% humidity, and the enclosed gorge will be actively wet and seeping. The sheltered, east-facing gorge holds moisture far longer than open crags, making conditions clearly unsuitable for climbing today.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • The enclosed gorge acts as a moisture trap — the narrow walls funnel drainage from the plateau above, and seepage lines on the back walls can persist for days after heavy rain like today's 20.7mm.
  • East-facing aspect means only morning sun reaches the walls; combined with the sheltered position, afternoon and evening drying is negligible, extending recovery time significantly compared to open limestone venues.
  • The glacially polished limestone surfaces become exceptionally slippery when damp — even residual moisture films that wouldn't concern a climber on rougher rock will dramatically reduce friction here.
  • The gorge floor itself will be waterlogged and muddy after today's deluge, affecting approach conditions and adding ambient moisture to the already saturated micro-climate within the gill.
Warnings 2
  • The gorge floor and approach path will be wet and muddy — take care on the walk-in from Parcevall Hall.
  • Polished limestone in an enclosed gorge becomes treacherously greasy; even light residual dampness poses a genuine fall risk on technical moves.
Reasoning
Moisture State

With 20.7mm falling today at 94% humidity on top of 1.4mm yesterday, the rock surfaces throughout the gorge will be thoroughly wet with active seepage on many walls.

Drying Analysis

The sheltered, enclosed gorge with only morning sun on east-facing walls will dry extremely slowly; even with tomorrow's dry forecast, the high humidity (84%) and northerly wind (which won't penetrate the sheltered gill) mean meaningful drying will take at least 2–3 full dry days.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural damage when wet, but the greasy, friction-less surface poses a serious safety risk for climbers attempting technical face moves on polished rock.

Seasonal Factors

Spring conditions in the Yorkshire Dales remain cool (averaging ~10°C) with moderate-length days; evaporative drying is limited compared to summer, and the recent wet pattern (56mm in 28 days) means background moisture levels are elevated.

Contributing Factors 6
Heavy rain today
97%

20.7mm of rain today has thoroughly soaked all rock surfaces and will generate seepage from the plateau above into the gorge walls.

Very high humidity
95%

Humidity at 94% today means virtually no evaporative drying is occurring, and moisture will persist on rock surfaces.

Enclosed sheltered gorge
93%

The narrow, sheltered gorge traps moisture and prevents wind-assisted drying that an open crag would benefit from.

East aspect morning sun only
90%

East-facing walls only receive direct sun in the morning, severely limiting solar drying — especially in a deep, narrow gorge.

Recent wet pattern
88%

22.8mm in the last 7 days and 56.2mm over 28 days means the surrounding limestone plateau is already saturated, feeding prolonged seepage into the gorge.

Dry forecast ahead
80%

The next 5 days show negligible precipitation (under 1mm total), which will allow gradual drying from tomorrow onwards.

Recommendations 3
  • Do not climb today — the gorge will be actively wet and dangerously slippery on the polished limestone.
  • Wait at least 2–3 full dry days before visiting; the earliest realistic window is May 6th or 7th when humidity also drops significantly.
  • On arrival, check for seepage on the back walls and test friction on lower holds before committing to routes — even when surfaces appear dry, residual dampness in pockets and grooves can catch you out.
Do Not Climb 92%
4 days ago
Today
Do Not Climb
92%
confidence

Trollers Gill received 17.7mm of rain today with 93% humidity, and the enclosed gorge will be actively wet and seeping. The sheltered, east-facing limestone walls need significant drying time before conditions will be suitable for climbing.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • The enclosed gorge geometry traps humidity and drastically slows drying — after today's 17.7mm deluge, seepage lines on the smooth glacially-polished walls will persist for at least 24–48 hours.
  • East-facing aspect means only morning sun reaches the walls, and the narrow gorge floor will remain damp and slippery well after the walls begin to dry.
  • Pockets and square-cut overhangs characteristic of this venue are particularly prone to holding water after heavy rain, creating greasy holds even when surrounding rock appears dry.
  • The gorge has seen nearly 20mm in the last 7 days and over 53mm in the last 28 days, meaning the limestone is already saturated from cumulative recent rainfall before today's heavy event.
Warnings 2
  • Glacially-polished limestone in Trollers Gill becomes extremely greasy when damp — even residual moisture creates a serious slip and fall hazard.
  • The gorge floor will be wet and potentially slippery for several days; take care on the approach and within the gill even if not climbing.
Reasoning
Moisture State

With 17.7mm today on top of nearly 20mm in the past week and 93% humidity, the gorge walls will be actively wet with seepage and standing water in pockets.

Drying Analysis

The sheltered gorge with east-only morning sun and light forecast winds will dry extremely slowly — surface drying alone will take at least 24–36 hours, with seepage lines persisting longer.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, but the glacially-polished surfaces become dangerously greasy with even minor moisture, making falls highly likely.

Seasonal Factors

Early May in the Dales at 300m means moderate temperatures but overnight lows near freezing are still possible, and spring weather remains unsettled with persistent dampness.

Contributing Factors 6
Heavy rain today
95%

17.7mm of precipitation today is a significant soaking event that will leave the gorge walls actively wet and seeping.

Very high humidity
93%

93% humidity today prevents evaporative drying and will keep limestone surfaces greasy even where not directly wet.

Sheltered enclosed gorge
90%

The narrow gorge traps moist air and blocks wind, dramatically slowing drying compared to open crags.

Cumulative recent rainfall
88%

Nearly 20mm in the past 7 days and 53mm over 28 days means the gorge was already holding moisture before today's heavy rain.

East aspect limited sun
85%

East-facing walls only receive morning sun, which is insufficient to drive rapid drying of the deep gorge.

Improving forecast ahead
80%

The 5-day forecast shows minimal precipitation and declining humidity from May 6 onwards, promising improving conditions later in the week.

Recommendations 3
  • Do not visit today — the gorge will be actively wet and limestone will be dangerously slippery.
  • Allow at least 48 hours of dry weather with humidity below 75% before attempting routes, and consider May 7 or later as the earliest realistic window.
  • On arrival later in the week, test friction carefully on lower overhanging sections first (these dry fastest) and avoid any routes with visible seepage or damp pockets.
Marginal — Assess Conditions 55%
5 days ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
confidence

The crag has had a good drying spell from April 21–May 1 with only 0.7mm total precipitation, but today's slight rain (0.4mm) and elevated humidity (82%) in this sheltered gorge introduce uncertainty. Conditions are likely acceptable on overhanging sections and upper walls, but pockets, seepage lines, and the gorge floor may still hold residual moisture — an on-site assessment is essential before committing.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • The enclosed gorge traps humid air and limits airflow, meaning today's 82% humidity will linger on the rock surfaces longer than at an open crag — expect reduced friction even where rock appears visually dry.
  • The east-facing aspect means morning sun reaches the walls early but is lost by midday; plan to climb in the morning window when any solar drying benefit is strongest.
  • Seepage lines on the glacially-polished walls can reactivate after even modest rain (today's 0.4mm and tomorrow's heavy 20.6mm forecast); check known weep zones at the base of overhangs before climbing.
  • The 25-minute walk-in via Parcevall Hall allows time for conditions to improve with morning sun — arriving mid-morning rather than dawn may yield noticeably better friction.
Warnings 2
  • Tomorrow's forecast of 20.6mm rain will saturate the gorge — do not plan to climb on May 3rd.
  • Glacially-polished limestone becomes exceptionally slippery when damp; even a thin moisture film dramatically reduces friction — test holds carefully before committing to moves.
Reasoning
Moisture State

The extended dry spell from April 21–May 1 (11 days with only 0.7mm) will have substantially dried the limestone, but today's 0.4mm rain and 82% humidity in this enclosed, sheltered gorge will have dampened surfaces and pockets.

Drying Analysis

The sheltered gorge position severely limits wind-assisted drying despite recent easterly winds being aligned with the aspect; the preceding dry spell was long enough for deep drainage but today's moisture resets surface conditions.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no rock conservation concern — the risk is entirely friction-related on the smooth, glacially-polished surfaces.

Seasonal Factors

Early May in the Yorkshire Dales brings improving temperatures but unpredictable showers; the forecast shows heavy rain tomorrow (20.6mm) followed by an unsettled week, making today potentially the last reasonable window before a prolonged wet spell.

Contributing Factors 7
Extended prior dry spell
85%

Eleven days from April 21–May 1 with only 0.7mm total precipitation allowed deep drainage of seepage lines and thorough surface drying.

Today's light rain and humidity
70%

Today's 0.4mm precipitation and 82% humidity will have dampened surface conditions, reducing friction on the smooth polished limestone.

Sheltered gorge microclimate
85%

The enclosed gorge traps moisture and humid air, significantly slowing surface drying compared to open crags.

East aspect morning sun
65%

East-facing walls receive direct morning sun which helps burn off surface moisture early in the day.

Heavy rain forecast tomorrow
80%

Over 20mm forecast for May 3rd means today is the last possible climbing window before a prolonged wet period — but this creates pressure to climb which should not override safety.

Moderate wind today
70%

Westerly wind at 17 km/h offers some drying assistance but the sheltered gorge position means very little of this reaches the climbing surfaces.

Spring seasonal humidity
75%

Average humidity of 73% over the last week is moderate-high for limestone friction, and today's 82% is above the comfort threshold for polished surfaces.

Recommendations 3
  • Arrive mid-morning to maximise the benefit of east-facing morning sun drying surfaces, and test friction carefully on lower holds before committing to routes.
  • Focus on steeper, overhanging lines which shed moisture fastest and are less affected by surface dampness — avoid slabby or friction-dependent routes today.
  • Be prepared to walk away if surfaces feel greasy; tomorrow brings 20mm+ of rain so conditions will only worsen from here — do not force it today.
Marginal — Assess Conditions 62%
6 days ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
62%
confidence

After a prolonged dry spell from April 21–30 (only 0.6mm on the 27th), the rock should be substantially dry, but today's trace rain (0.2mm), moderate humidity (66%), and the gorge's sheltered, moisture-retaining nature introduce enough uncertainty to warrant on-site assessment. Overhanging sections are most likely to be in good condition; vertical and slabby walls may still feel greasy in shaded areas.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Trollers Gill is an enclosed, narrow gorge where air circulation is very poor — even when open hillsides are dry, the gorge floor and lower walls can remain damp and humidity can be noticeably higher inside the gill than outside.
  • The east-facing aspect means walls receive morning sun only; by afternoon the gorge is in shade, so any surface moisture picked up from today's trace rain or overnight condensation will dry slowly after midday.
  • Seepage lines are common on the smooth glacially-polished walls after prolonged wet periods — the heavy mid-April rain (10.3mm on the 15th, plus follow-on showers) may still be feeding through limestone joints despite the recent dry spell.
  • The overhanging lower sections and steep sport routes dry fastest and are the best bet today; vertical slabs and pocket-rich faces higher in the gorge are more likely to hold residual dampness.
Warnings 2
  • Limestone in an enclosed gorge can feel dry to the touch yet still be greasy enough to cause unexpected slips — test friction carefully on easy ground before committing to harder moves.
  • Significant rain is forecast for May 3 (9.3mm) which will reset drying; if you can climb today or tomorrow, those are your best windows this week.
Reasoning
Moisture State

The rock has benefited from an excellent 9-day drying window (April 21–30, only 0.6mm total) following a wet mid-April period, but today's 0.2mm trace precipitation and the gorge's sheltered microclimate mean surface moisture cannot be ruled out.

Drying Analysis

The sheltered, east-facing gorge receives limited direct sun and minimal wind penetration, meaning drying is significantly slower than at open crags — however, nine largely dry days with moderate easterly winds and a warm day today (20°C) should have dried most exposed surfaces.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern; the risk is purely frictional — greasy limestone in a humid gorge is a genuine safety hazard.

Seasonal Factors

Early May in the Dales is a transition period with improving temperatures but still-variable conditions; the recent warm spell (up to 20°C today) is favourable, but overnight lows near freezing earlier in the week suggest residual ground moisture.

Contributing Factors 7
Extended dry spell
85%

Nine days from April 21–30 with only 0.6mm of rain provided an excellent drying window for the gorge walls.

Warm temperatures today
80%

Today's 20°C maximum is the warmest in weeks and aids evaporation of any residual surface moisture.

Trace rain today
50%

Today's 0.2mm is negligible on open rock but could leave a film of moisture on sheltered limestone surfaces inside the gorge.

Sheltered gorge microclimate
80%

The enclosed gill traps humidity and receives minimal wind, meaning drying is much slower than weather station data would suggest for an open crag.

Moderate humidity levels
65%

Humidity at 66% today is acceptable but not ideal for limestone friction; inside the gorge actual humidity may be several points higher.

Mid-April seepage legacy
55%

Heavy rain on April 15 (10.3mm) plus subsequent showers totalling ~9mm through April 20 may still be percolating through limestone joints and emerging as seepage.

East-facing morning sun
70%

Morning sun on the east-facing walls will help dry any overnight condensation in the first half of the day.

Recommendations 3
  • Visit in the morning to maximise the benefit of direct sun on the east-facing walls, and physically test holds for greasiness before committing to routes.
  • Prioritise the overhanging and steep sport routes on the lower walls, which dry fastest and are least affected by residual seepage.
  • Check for active seepage lines on vertical walls — if water is visible running down the rock or pockets are holding water, retreat and wait for further drying.
Marginal — Assess Conditions 65%
9 days ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
65%
confidence

Two full dry days following light rain on April 27th (0.6mm), combined with today's low humidity (64%) and moderate easterly wind, suggest the limestone surfaces are likely approaching climbable condition. However, Trollers Gill's enclosed gorge character means residual seepage and pocket moisture may persist, so on-site assessment is essential before committing to routes.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Trollers Gill is a narrow, enclosed gorge where air circulation is poor despite today's easterly wind — the sheltered walls dry significantly slower than open limestone crags, and the gorge floor may still be damp.
  • The east-facing aspect means the walls only catch morning sun, which limits solar drying to a few hours per day, especially in the deeper sections of the gill.
  • The glacially polished limestone becomes exceptionally greasy with even slight residual moisture — friction loss is more pronounced here than on rougher limestone surfaces.
  • April's cumulative 42mm of rain over 28 days means the surrounding ground is saturated, and seepage lines through the limestone above may still be active even after two dry days.
Warnings 2
  • Seepage lines within the gorge may still be active after 42mm of rain this month — visually inspect routes for wet streaks before climbing.
  • Glacially polished limestone becomes dangerously slippery with even a thin film of moisture; do not assume dry-looking rock offers full friction.
Reasoning
Moisture State

The last meaningful rain was 0.6mm on April 27th, and before that 1.8mm on April 18th with a good dry spell from April 21-26; surface limestone should be largely dry but the enclosed gorge and persistent seepage lines mean pockets and lower walls may retain moisture.

Drying Analysis

Two consecutive dry days with today's 64% humidity and 31 km/h easterly wind are helpful, but the sheltered gorge interior receives limited wind penetration and only morning sun on east-facing walls, so drying will be slower than the open-air weather data suggests.

Structural Risk

Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern from recent moisture — the risk is purely friction-related.

Seasonal Factors

Late April in the Yorkshire Dales means lengthening days and improving conditions, but overnight temperatures still dropping near freezing suggest morning condensation on shaded gorge walls that needs time to evaporate.

Contributing Factors 7
Recent precipitation pattern
80%

Only 0.6mm of rain in the last 7 days, with the bulk of recent wet weather (10.3mm on April 15th) now well over two weeks ago, giving a generally favourable drying trend.

Sheltered gorge microclimate
85%

The enclosed gill significantly reduces wind penetration and limits sun exposure, meaning the gorge interior dries far slower than the weather station data implies.

Current humidity dropping
75%

Today's humidity of 64% is the lowest in over a week and well below the 73% seven-day average, improving friction on limestone surfaces.

Overnight condensation risk
80%

Overnight temperatures dropped to near freezing with humidity reaching 91%, likely producing condensation on cold gorge walls that will take hours of morning sun to clear.

East-facing limited solar drying
80%

East aspect means direct sun only in the morning, and deeper gorge sections may receive very little at all, limiting the thermal drying effect.

Moderate easterly wind today
50%

The 31 km/h easterly wind may penetrate the gorge opening slightly more than winds from other directions, aiding surface evaporation on exposed upper walls.

Cumulative monthly rainfall
75%

42mm over the past 28 days means the surrounding limestone geology is well-charged with water, increasing the likelihood of active seepage lines within the gorge.

Recommendations 3
  • Visit in the late morning or early afternoon to allow overnight condensation to clear and benefit from whatever morning sun reaches the gorge walls.
  • Test friction carefully on the first few holds before committing — glacially polished limestone can feel deceptively dry to the eye but still be greasy underfoot.
  • Focus on the overhanging lower sections which dry fastest and are least affected by seepage; avoid routes with known seepage lines or deep pockets that may still hold water.

Climbing Outlook

Today 8 May
Marginal 50%
Fri 8 May
Do Not Climb 85%
Sat 9 May
Do Not Climb 85%
Sun 10 May
Do Not Climb 70%
Mon 11 May
Do Not Climb 75%
Tue 12 May
Do Not Climb 55%

Analysis Calendar

May 2026