CountyEthics

Buckstone How

Slate · Exposed exposure · 360m altitude

Do not climb

Condition Analysis

AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history

1d ago
Today
Do Not Climb
55%
confidence

Recent days have seen intermittent light rain (May 3rd 8.5mm, plus small amounts on the 5th, 6th, and today) with high humidity and overcast skies, preventing the polished slate from drying properly. Light showers are forecast from mid-afternoon today and rain continues into the coming days, making reliable dry conditions unlikely.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate becomes extremely greasy with even trace moisture — the layered ledges hold surface water and can appear deceptively dry while still slick.
  • The exposed Honister Pass position means cloud base at 360m frequently envelops the crag in spring, depositing condensation even when it isn't raining in the valley.
  • A good extended dry spell from April 21–30 would have left the crag in excellent condition, but the return of unsettled weather from May 1st onwards has re-wetted surfaces.
  • The south/south-west aspect is beneficial for drying but current high cloud cover (80–100%) is negating most solar gain.
Warnings 2
  • Polished slate at Buckstone How can be dangerously slippery with even a thin film of moisture — do not trust apparently dry-looking surfaces without a careful touch test.
  • Cloud base may sit at or below 360m today, depositing condensation on the rock even during nominally dry hours.
Reasoning
Moisture State

Intermittent light precipitation over the past week (13.9mm total), combined with today's 82% humidity, 100% cloud cover, and light drizzle forecast from 15:00, means slate surfaces are likely carrying residual moisture or condensation.

Drying Analysis

Although there was a brief dry window on May 4th and partial drying on the 6th–7th, moderate winds (~15–24 km/h) have been offset by persistent high humidity (80%+) and heavy cloud, severely limiting effective evaporation on the polished slate.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous so there is no structural concern from moisture, but the friction loss on polished quarried slate when damp is severe and poses a real fall hazard.

Seasonal Factors

Early May at 360m in the Lake District means temperatures are still modest (8–10°C), cloud base often sits at or below crag height, and drying capacity is limited compared to summer months.

Contributing Factors 6
Recent intermittent precipitation
85%

Small but repeated rain events on May 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, and today have kept surfaces periodically wet with no sustained drying window.

High ambient humidity
80%

Average humidity of 80% over the past week inhibits evaporation and may cause condensation on cold slate surfaces, especially overnight and in cloud.

Persistent cloud cover today
85%

Cloud cover at 80–100% all day eliminates meaningful solar drying on the south-facing aspect.

Exposed windy position
70%

Moderate southerly winds (15–24 km/h) at the exposed pass help move air across rock surfaces, providing some drying effect.

Polished slate friction risk
90%

Even light dampness or condensation on Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate dramatically reduces friction, making slabs and lower-angle features treacherous.

Light drizzle forecast today
75%

Trace precipitation (0.2–0.3mm) is forecast from 15:00–19:00, which will re-wet any surfaces that had started to dry.

Recommendations 3
  • Wait for a sustained dry spell of at least 2 full dry days with lower humidity (<70%) before visiting — polished slate needs thorough drying for safe friction.
  • If you do visit, avoid slabs and lower-angle routes entirely; stick to steep ground with positive edges where friction is less critical.
  • Check the Honister webcam or local reports before committing to the drive — cloud frequently envelops the crag at this time of year even when valleys are clear.

Previous Analyses

Marginal — Assess Conditions 62%
2 days ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
62%
confidence

The rock has had only one full dry day after light rain on May 5th (1.4mm) and a wetter period around May 1st–3rd, but today is dry with dropping humidity and a gentle breeze on a south-facing, exposed crag. Surface conditions are likely mostly dry by afternoon, but lingering dampness in sheltered ledges and seepage lines cannot be ruled out — visual assessment on arrival is essential.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Polished quarried slate at Buckstone How becomes extremely greasy with even light moisture, so surfaces that look dry can still be treacherously slippery if there is any residual film of dampness.
  • The layered ledge structure traps water and slows drainage — even after the face has dried, horizontal ledges and cracks between layers may hold moisture.
  • The exposed Honister Pass position means the crag benefits from strong wind drying, but at 360m the crag can sit in cloud or mist that re-wets surfaces without any rain being recorded.
  • A sustained dry spell from April 21–30 thoroughly dried the rock, but the recent return of rain (May 1–3 and May 5) has re-introduced surface moisture that needs clearing.
Warnings 2
  • Polished slate can appear dry but retain an invisible moisture film that causes sudden loss of friction — test carefully before committing, especially on slabs and lower-angle terrain.
  • Cloud may envelop the crag at 360m despite no rain in the forecast; if mist rolls in, surfaces will re-wet rapidly and conditions will become unsafe.
Reasoning
Moisture State

Light rain on May 5th (1.4mm) and heavier rain on May 3rd (8.5mm) mean the rock has had approximately 1.5 dry days of drying, which is marginal for polished slate surfaces especially on ledges and sheltered features.

Drying Analysis

The south/south-west aspect and exposed position with moderate winds (~15 km/h) today combined with dropping humidity (down to 48% by afternoon) should allow surface drying through the day, but only one full dry day is borderline for complete drainage of layered ledge features.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous so there is no structural weakening concern; the risk is entirely about surface friction on polished surfaces.

Seasonal Factors

Early May at 360m means temperatures are still cool (max ~10°C today) which slows evaporation, and cloud base can easily sit at or below crag level, potentially re-wetting surfaces.

Contributing Factors 6
Recent light rain
85%

1.4mm fell on May 5th and 8.5mm on May 3rd, giving only about 1.5 dry days before today which is marginal for full surface drying on layered slate.

Dropping humidity today
80%

Humidity drops from 86% overnight to around 48% by mid-afternoon, actively promoting evaporation from rock surfaces.

South-facing exposed aspect
85%

The S/SW aspect receives good solar radiation through the day and the exposed Honister Pass position allows wind to assist drying.

Polished slate friction risk
90%

Even a thin film of residual moisture on polished quarried slate drastically reduces friction, making apparently dry rock dangerously slippery.

Cloud base at altitude
60%

At 360m with high cloud cover forecast (80–99% through the afternoon), intermittent mist or cloud contact could re-wet surfaces despite no recorded precipitation.

Deteriorating forecast ahead
85%

Rain returns tomorrow (0.9mm) and builds through the week with heavy rain forecast by May 10th (20.1mm), so today may be the best window for several days.

Recommendations 3
  • If climbing today, go in the early-to-mid afternoon when humidity is lowest and surfaces have had maximum drying time — carefully test friction on polished holds before committing to moves.
  • Check layered ledges and horizontal cracks for trapped water; if these features are still wet, the rock has not fully dried and slabs should be avoided.
  • Consider this your best window before a prolonged wet spell — the forecast from May 7th onwards brings increasing rain, so if conditions look marginal today, the next realistic opportunity may not come until May 12th or later.
Marginal — Assess Conditions 55%
3 days ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
confidence

Recent rain on May 3rd (8.5mm) was followed by a dry day yesterday, and today is mostly dry with light showers forecast from late afternoon. The midday window (roughly 11:00–15:00) looks the most promising, but high overnight humidity and cloud cover mean condensation or residual dampness on polished slate surfaces is possible — visual assessment on arrival is essential.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate becomes extremely greasy with even light moisture, and the layered ledges can hold puddles and seepage after the 8.5mm rain two days ago.
  • The exposed Honister Pass position aids wind-drying, but overnight humidity has been very high (88–96%) suggesting possible condensation on rock surfaces this morning.
  • The south/south-west aspect will receive limited direct solar heating today due to high cloud cover (80–95%), reducing the effectiveness of solar drying on the slate.
  • Light rain is forecast from around 16:00 onwards today — any climbing window should be confined to the early-to-mid afternoon before conditions deteriorate.
Warnings 2
  • Light rain is forecast from 16:00 onwards — do not start routes late in the afternoon as polished slate becomes dangerously slippery very quickly.
  • Overnight condensation at 360m altitude may persist on shaded or north-facing sections of the crag well into the morning.
Reasoning
Moisture State

The rock received 8.5mm rain on May 3rd followed by a dry but humid and cloudy May 4th, and overnight humidity exceeded 90%, so while the non-porous slate won't have absorbed water, surface moisture from condensation or residual drainage on ledges is likely.

Drying Analysis

Yesterday afternoon saw improving conditions (humidity dropping to 63%, light breeze, some sun clearing) which will have helped surface drying, but overnight condensation at 360m altitude with 94% humidity likely re-wetted exposed surfaces; today's moderate breeze and partial cloud breaks around midday should provide some drying by early afternoon.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous and not at risk of structural damage from moisture, so the concern is entirely about surface friction on the polished quarried faces.

Seasonal Factors

Early May at 360m brings cool temperatures and persistent cloud; while freeze-thaw risk is minimal at current temperatures (min ~4°C), slow drying conditions and frequent moisture are typical for this time of year in the Lake District fells.

Contributing Factors 6
Recent rain and humidity
80%

8.5mm fell on May 3rd and overnight humidity has been 88–96%, meaning residual surface moisture or condensation is likely on the slate.

Afternoon drying window
65%

Humidity is forecast to drop to 56–61% between 13:00–15:00 with a light breeze, offering the best drying window of the day.

Late afternoon rain returns
70%

Light precipitation (0.1–0.5mm) is forecast from 16:00–20:00, closing the usable climbing window and re-wetting surfaces.

Exposed pass position aids drying
75%

The exposed Honister Pass location catches wind consistently, which helps strip surface moisture from the non-porous slate.

Persistent high cloud cover
70%

Cloud cover remains 80–95% for most of today, limiting direct solar radiation on the south-facing aspect and slowing evaporative drying.

Polished slate friction risk
85%

Buckstone How's polished slate surfaces lose friction dramatically with even a thin film of moisture, making any residual dampness a serious safety concern.

Recommendations 3
  • If visiting today, target the early-to-mid afternoon window (12:00–15:00) when humidity is lowest, and carefully test friction on lower holds before committing to routes.
  • Avoid slab routes entirely — focus on steeper ground with positive edges where residual moisture is less critical to safety.
  • Consider waiting until tomorrow (May 6th) which looks drier with lower humidity and no precipitation forecast, offering more reliable conditions.
Marginal — Assess Conditions 60%
4 days ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
confidence

Yesterday's 8.5mm of rain in saturated conditions (94% humidity, 100% cloud) will have left slate surfaces wet overnight, but today's improving afternoon — clearing skies, dropping humidity to ~62%, and a building NW breeze — should allow exposed south-facing slate to dry by mid-to-late afternoon. Climbers should visually and physically check surfaces before committing, especially on lower-angle or ledgy terrain where pooled water lingers.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Buckstone How's layered slate ledges trap standing water after rain; even when steeper faces are dry, horizontal breaks and ledge systems can remain damp for hours longer.
  • The crag sits at 360m on the exposed Honister Pass, meaning cloud base may have enveloped the crag overnight despite valley clearing — condensation moisture can persist independently of rainfall.
  • Polished quarried slate at Buckstone How is notoriously greasy with even a thin film of moisture; the difference between 'nearly dry' and 'safe to climb' is critical here and can only be judged by touch on arrival.
  • The south/south-west aspect receives direct afternoon sun which, combined with the NW wind forecast from midday, creates the best drying window between roughly 14:00–18:00 today.
Warnings 2
  • Polished slate becomes extremely dangerous when even slightly damp — a surface that looks dry can still have an invisible moisture film that eliminates friction; test with your palm before climbing.
  • The hillside above is thoroughly saturated from recent heavy rain; be alert for unexpected seepage or water running down from above, even if the rock face appears dry.
Reasoning
Moisture State

8.5mm fell yesterday in near-saturated conditions (94% humidity), and overnight humidity remained above 94% with minimal wind, meaning slate surfaces will have retained a moisture film into this morning.

Drying Analysis

The south-facing aspect and building NW wind (up to 16.6 km/h) with clearing skies from early afternoon should provide effective drying from around midday, but the overnight saturation and slow early-morning drying means surfaces may only reach reliable friction by mid-to-late afternoon.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous and does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold integrity is not a concern; the sole risk is the dramatic friction loss on polished slate surfaces.

Seasonal Factors

Early May at 360m in the Lake District means temperatures are modest (max ~12°C) limiting evaporation rates, and the recent wet spell (111.7mm in 28 days) means the surrounding hillside is saturated, potentially feeding seepage onto routes from above.

Contributing Factors 7
Yesterday's rain and saturation
90%

8.5mm of rain fell yesterday with 94% humidity and 100% cloud cover throughout, leaving surfaces thoroughly wet going into the night.

Overnight high humidity
85%

Humidity remained 94–98% overnight with near-calm winds (2–6 km/h), preventing any meaningful overnight drying of slate surfaces.

Afternoon clearing and wind
75%

Cloud cover drops dramatically from mid-afternoon (66% at 14:00, 3% by 16:00) with humidity falling to 62% and NW wind building to ~16 km/h, creating a strong drying window.

South-facing exposed aspect
80%

The S/SW aspect will receive direct afternoon sun once clouds clear, and the exposed pass position maximises wind drying.

Recent wet spell cumulative effect
70%

111.7mm over 28 days with multiple heavy events means the hillside above is saturated, increasing the risk of seepage feeding moisture onto routes from above.

Non-porous rock type
90%

Slate does not absorb water so only surface moisture needs to evaporate, which is faster than porous rock but polished surfaces remain treacherously slippery until fully dry.

Moderate temperature limiting evaporation
70%

Maximum temperature of only 11.9°C at 360m altitude limits evaporation rate compared to warmer conditions.

Recommendations 3
  • Target a late-afternoon session (15:00–18:00) when clearing skies and wind will have had several hours to dry the south-facing rock, and physically test friction on holds before committing to routes.
  • Avoid slabby or lower-angle routes today — prioritise steeper ground with positive edges where friction loss is less critical and water runs off more readily.
  • Check ledge systems and horizontal breaks carefully for pooled water, and be prepared to walk away if surfaces still feel greasy to the touch.
Do Not Climb 75%
4 days ago
Today
Do Not Climb
75%
confidence

Buckstone How received 8.5mm of rain today with 93% humidity, and the rock will be wet and extremely greasy right now. Although the forecast shows a dry spell starting tomorrow, the crag needs at least a full dry day with decent wind to shed surface moisture from the layered ledges.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Today's 8.5mm rain on top of 1.9mm and 0.7mm on the previous two days means the layered slate ledges will be holding pooled surface water that takes time to drain despite the non-porous rock.
  • The NE wind direction today is unfavourable for this S/SW-facing crag — it shelters the main face from direct wind drying and reduces the exposed-position advantage Buckstone How normally enjoys.
  • Polished quarried slate at Buckstone How is notoriously greasy even with light residual dampness — the layered texture traps thin films of water in horizontal breaks that are invisible but devastating for friction.
  • The short approach from Honister Pass car park makes it easy to walk up, assess conditions, and retreat if the rock is still damp — a viable strategy from tomorrow onwards.
Warnings 2
  • Polished slate at Buckstone How becomes extremely slippery with even invisible films of moisture — do not trust a dry appearance without physically testing holds.
  • At 360m altitude, cloud may sit on the crag even when the valley appears fine — check cloud base before committing to the walk up.
Reasoning
Moisture State

The crag is currently wet from today's 8.5mm of rain at 93% humidity, following light rain on the previous two days, meaning all surfaces will have standing or film moisture.

Drying Analysis

Today's NE wind is unfavourable for this S/SW-facing crag, limiting wind-assisted drying; tomorrow's shift to W at ~17 km/h with no rain should begin effective drying, but a full day is needed to clear the layered ledges.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous and suffers no structural weakening from moisture — the risk is entirely friction-related on the polished surfaces.

Seasonal Factors

Early May at 360m means temperatures are moderate (9–12°C) and days are long enough for good solar drying on the south-facing aspect, but overnight temperatures near freezing could cause light frost on residual moisture.

Contributing Factors 7
Today's significant rainfall
95%

8.5mm of rain today at 93% humidity has thoroughly wetted all surfaces and the layered ledge system will be holding pooled water.

Recent preceding rain
85%

Light rain on May 1st (1.9mm) and May 2nd (0.7mm) means the crag had not fully dried before today's heavier fall.

Unfavourable wind direction today
80%

Today's NE wind does not reach the S/SW-facing main wall effectively, reducing the drying advantage this exposed site normally has.

High ambient humidity
90%

Humidity at 93% severely limits evaporative drying — surface moisture will linger even with moderate wind speeds.

Dry forecast from tomorrow
75%

No rain is forecast until May 7th (3.0mm), giving a potential 3-day drying window starting tomorrow with the wind shifting to W then N.

S/SW aspect solar gain
70%

The south-facing aspect will receive good solar radiation through the drying window, helping evaporate surface moisture from tomorrow if skies clear.

Polished slate friction risk
95%

Even a thin residual film of moisture on polished Skiddaw Slate dramatically reduces friction, making climbing dangerous before the rock is thoroughly dry.

Recommendations 3
  • Do not climb today — the crag is wet and the polished slate will be dangerously greasy.
  • Tomorrow (May 4th) could be viable by afternoon if the wind shifts to W as forecast — walk up, touch-test multiple holds at different heights, and retreat if any dampness is detected.
  • The best window this week is likely May 5th–6th after two full dry days with favourable winds; prioritise steeper routes where drainage is better and avoid slabby ground.
Do Not Climb 90%
4 days ago
Today
Do Not Climb
90%
confidence

Buckstone How is currently wet from 8.5mm of rain today with 93% humidity and light NE winds — conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing on polished slate. The rock will be extremely greasy and dangerous; wait for a sustained dry spell.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate becomes treacherously greasy with even light moisture — today's 8.5mm of rain on already-damp rock makes friction negligible on slab and face routes.
  • The NE wind today is unfavourable for drying this S/SW-facing crag, as it blows across or away from the main face rather than directly onto it.
  • The layered ledge structure on slate traps surface water and slows drainage despite the rock being non-porous — pooled moisture persists longer than on smooth vertical faces.
  • The exposed Honister Pass position usually aids drying, but with 93% humidity and cool temperatures today, evaporation will be minimal.
Warnings 2
  • Polished slate at Buckstone How is treacherously slippery when wet — falls on even easy ground can result in serious injury.
  • Today's 8.5mm rain with 93% humidity means zero friction on slab routes; do not attempt to climb.
Reasoning
Moisture State

The rock is currently wet from 8.5mm of rain today, compounded by 1.9mm on May 1st and 0.7mm on May 2nd — the surface will be saturated with standing water on ledges.

Drying Analysis

Light NE wind at 14.8 km/h is blowing from the sheltered side of this S/SW-facing crag, and 93% humidity means negligible evaporative drying is occurring today.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous so there is no structural damage risk from wet climbing, but the polished quarried surfaces lose virtually all friction when wet, creating a serious fall hazard.

Seasonal Factors

Early May at 360m altitude means temperatures are moderate but the recent unsettled spell with 114mm over 28 days has kept the crag and surroundings persistently damp.

Contributing Factors 8
Rain today (8.5mm)
95%

Significant rain today ensures the rock surface is thoroughly wet right now with no drying opportunity.

Very high humidity (93%)
90%

Near-saturation humidity prevents any meaningful evaporation from the rock surface.

Unfavourable NE wind direction
85%

NE wind does not directly hit the S/SW-facing crag, reducing its drying effectiveness significantly.

Light wind speed (14.8 km/h)
80%

Moderate wind would normally help drying on this exposed site, but today's speed is relatively light for Honister Pass.

Recent wet spell cumulative
85%

Over 114mm in the past 28 days means the surrounding ground and ledges are thoroughly saturated, contributing seepage and ambient moisture.

Polished slate friction risk
95%

Buckstone How's polished slate surfaces lose friction dramatically when damp — even residual moisture makes climbing dangerous.

S/SW aspect potential
70%

The south-facing aspect will receive good solar radiation once skies clear, which will help future drying.

Non-porous rock type
90%

Slate does not absorb water so once surface moisture evaporates the rock will be climbable without a prolonged structural drying period.

Recommendations 3
  • Do not climb today — the rock is wet and polished slate is extremely dangerous when damp.
  • Monitor conditions for May 6th onwards, when a dry day with low humidity and SW wind could finally dry the crag.
  • When you do visit, test friction carefully on lower holds before committing to routes — even apparently dry slate can retain a greasy film in sheltered spots.
Do Not Climb 70%
4 days ago
Today
Do Not Climb
70%
confidence

Buckstone How received 6.5mm of rain today with 94% humidity and light NE winds, leaving polished slate surfaces almost certainly greasy and dangerous. Despite a reasonably dry preceding week, today's rain resets the clock — the crag needs at least a full dry day with decent wind to shed surface moisture from its layered ledges.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • The polished quarried slate at Buckstone How becomes exceptionally slippery with even trace moisture — today's 6.5mm will leave surfaces treacherous until wind and sun can dry them.
  • The layered ledge structure of Skiddaw Slate traps water on horizontal surfaces and in cracks between layers, meaning drainage can lag behind what the exposed position might suggest.
  • The NE wind today is unfavourable for this S/SW-facing crag — it shelters the main face from the breeze, significantly slowing drying compared to the prevailing SW/W winds.
  • At 360m altitude in early May, overnight temperatures around 6°C with high humidity can produce condensation or light frost on rock surfaces, compounding the moisture issue from today's rain.
Warnings 2
  • Polished slate at Buckstone How is extremely dangerous when damp — even residual moisture invisible to the eye can cause unexpected slips on slab routes.
  • Overnight frost is possible on May 6th (forecast -1.3°C min) — icy rock at dawn is even more hazardous than wet rock; wait for the sun to warm the face before climbing.
Reasoning
Moisture State

With 6.5mm of rain today at 94% humidity and zero consecutive dry days, the slate surfaces are currently wet and greasy — polished slate in these conditions offers dangerously low friction.

Drying Analysis

Today's NE wind at just 14 km/h is the worst combination for this S/SW-facing crag, providing minimal drying effect; a shift to W winds tomorrow at 17 km/h plus lower humidity (83%) should begin drying, but a full day is needed.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous and not at risk of structural damage from moisture, so the concern is entirely about surface friction and climber safety on greasy polished rock.

Seasonal Factors

Early May in the Lake District at 360m is a transitional period with cool nights (possible light frost at -1.3°C forecast on May 6th) and variable conditions; the recent wet spell of 112mm over 28 days has kept the mountain environment saturated.

Contributing Factors 7
Rain today (6.5mm)
95%

Active rain today with 6.5mm recorded means rock surfaces are currently wet and there has been no drying opportunity.

Very high humidity (94%)
90%

Near-saturated air at 94% humidity prevents evaporation and keeps surfaces damp even where not directly rained upon.

Unfavourable NE wind direction
85%

The NE wind shelters this S/SW-facing crag from the breeze, drastically reducing the exposed position's usual drying advantage.

Light wind speed (14 km/h)
80%

Wind at only 14 km/h is the lightest recorded in the past week, providing minimal evaporative drying even on exposed surfaces.

Prior dry spell (Apr 21–30)
75%

A sustained dry spell from April 21–30 means the broader environment was well dried before the recent return of rain, so recovery should be quicker once conditions improve.

Polished slate friction risk
95%

Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate loses friction dramatically when damp — even a thin film of moisture makes moves unsafe.

Cool temperatures limiting drying
80%

A max of only 9.7°C today provides limited thermal energy for evaporation, especially at 360m altitude.

Recommendations 3
  • Do not climb at Buckstone How today — the slate will be dangerously greasy from today's rain and high humidity.
  • Reassess tomorrow (May 4th) after the wind shifts to W and humidity drops; surfaces may be dry enough by afternoon if no further rain arrives.
  • If visiting this week, May 6th looks like the most promising day with 0mm rain forecast, dropping humidity (69%), and a frost that could leave dry surfaces by mid-morning.
Do Not Climb 55%
5 days ago
Today
Do Not Climb
55%
confidence

Today has seen 1.9mm of rain with 90% humidity, breaking a good dry spell; polished slate at Buckstone How will be greasy and slippery in these conditions. The forecast shows further rain tomorrow (7.4mm) with no sustained dry window until May 7th at the earliest, so conditions are currently unfavourable.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate becomes extremely greasy with even light moisture — the 1.9mm today and high humidity will leave surfaces dangerously slick despite the exposed position.
  • The layered ledge structure traps water and slows drainage even though the rock itself is non-porous, so residual puddles and seepage between layers can persist after rain.
  • The south/south-west aspect and exposed Honister Pass position normally aid rapid drying, but today's SW wind is driving moist air directly onto the face, negating the usual drying advantage.
  • At 360m altitude, cloud base may sit at or near crag level in current conditions (90% humidity, ~11°C), keeping surfaces persistently damp even without direct rainfall.
Warnings 2
  • Polished slate at Buckstone How is extremely dangerous when damp — falls due to friction loss are a real risk even on moderate grades.
  • Cloud may envelop the crag at 360m in current conditions, reducing visibility and keeping rock persistently wet.
Reasoning
Moisture State

With 1.9mm of rain today and 90% humidity, rock surfaces at Buckstone How are currently wet or at minimum damp, and the polished slate will have near-zero friction in these conditions.

Drying Analysis

The preceding dry spell (April 21–30) had thoroughly dried the rock, but today's rain and yesterday's 1.9mm have re-wetted surfaces; moderate SW winds (22 km/h) are insufficient to dry the crag quickly given the very high humidity.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous and not structurally compromised by moisture, so there is no risk of hold breakage or rock damage — the concern is purely frictional safety.

Seasonal Factors

Early May in the Lake District is transitional; temperatures are mild but highly variable, and the current damp spell with cloud at altitude is typical of unsettled spring weather at 360m.

Contributing Factors 6
Today's rain and humidity
90%

1.9mm of precipitation today combined with 90% humidity means rock surfaces are currently wet and will remain greasy.

Preceding extended dry spell
85%

Eight consecutive dry days from April 21–30 fully dried out ledges and seepage lines before this wet interruption.

Polished slate friction risk
95%

Quarried and polished Skiddaw Slate loses friction dramatically when damp, making even lightly moist surfaces treacherous.

Exposed wind position
70%

The exposed Honister Pass position means the crag dries rapidly once rain stops and humidity drops, though today's moist SW airflow limits this benefit.

High altitude cloud risk
75%

At 360m with 90% humidity, the crag may be in or near cloud, keeping surfaces persistently damp even between showers.

Forecast rain tomorrow
80%

7.4mm forecast for May 3rd with 91% humidity will prevent any meaningful drying and further saturate ledges and drainage lines.

Recommendations 3
  • Wait for a sustained dry window — the forecast suggests May 7th onwards may offer the first viable opportunity with 0mm rain and dropping humidity to 65%.
  • If visiting in the coming days, have a backup plan for lower-level or indoor climbing, as conditions at 360m will be unreliable.
  • When conditions do improve, test friction carefully on the polished slate before committing to routes — even residual dampness in sheltered spots or between layers can catch climbers out.
Marginal — Assess Conditions 60%
6 days ago
Today
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
confidence

After an excellent dry spell from April 21–30, today's light rain (1.9mm) has broken the streak and introduced surface moisture. The crag has been thoroughly dried out over the past 9+ days of negligible precipitation, so the underlying rock is bone dry, but today's shower and rising humidity mean polished slate surfaces could still be greasy — a visual check on arrival is essential.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • Buckstone How's polished quarry-cut slate becomes treacherously greasy with even a film of moisture — the extended dry spell will have cleared deep seepage but today's shower may leave slick surfaces on lower-angle terrain.
  • The exposed Honister Pass position means the moderate southerly breeze (19 km/h) will help dry today's light rain relatively quickly, but 63% humidity limits evaporation rate.
  • Layered slate ledges can trap small pools of water after rain and drain slowly despite the steep overall profile — check horizontal breaks and ledge systems for standing water.
  • The south/south-west aspect receives good spring sunshine in early May, and afternoon sun should help burn off residual dampness from today's shower if skies clear.
Warnings 2
  • Polished slate at Buckstone How can be dangerously slippery with even trace moisture — do not commit to slab or friction-dependent routes without physically testing the surface.
  • Check BMC RAD for bird nesting restrictions at Buckstone How before visiting, as peregrine and raven nesting season runs through June.
Reasoning
Moisture State

Today's 1.9mm of rain has deposited light surface moisture on non-porous slate that was thoroughly dried after 9 consecutive dry days (April 21–30), so the rock is not saturated but surface dampness is likely present.

Drying Analysis

A moderate 19 km/h southerly breeze on the exposed south-facing hillside should dry 1.9mm of surface water within hours, but with 63% humidity and spring temperatures the process may not be complete by the time of a morning visit.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous and does not suffer structural weakening when wet — there is no risk of hold breakage from today's conditions.

Seasonal Factors

Early May offers improving daylight hours and solar angle, but temperatures at 360m remain moderate and overnight lows near freezing earlier in the week suggest lingering cool conditions that slow drying; check for bird nesting restrictions via BMC RAD.

Contributing Factors 7
Extended prior dry spell
95%

Nine consecutive dry days (April 21–30) with warm temperatures up to 19°C and low humidity (down to 42%) have thoroughly dried out all seepage lines and deep moisture reservoirs.

Today's light rain
85%

1.9mm of rain today has broken the dry streak and deposited a film of surface moisture on the polished slate.

Polished slate friction risk
90%

Even a light film of moisture on Buckstone How's polished slate dramatically reduces friction, making slabs and lower-angle features treacherous.

Exposed wind drying
80%

The exposed pass position with a 19 km/h southerly breeze promotes rapid surface drying on this non-porous rock.

Humidity rising to 63%
70%

Humidity has risen from the 40s during the dry spell to 63% today, moderately slowing evaporation.

South-facing spring aspect
75%

The S/SW aspect catches strong early-May sun when skies clear, aiding surface drying through the afternoon.

Forecast deterioration
85%

Tomorrow brings further light rain (1.7mm) with 94% humidity, and May 3 sees 10.4mm — conditions are set to worsen before improving.

Recommendations 3
  • If visiting today, wait until afternoon to allow the southerly breeze and sun to dry the light shower, and test friction carefully on polished surfaces before committing to any route.
  • Focus on steeper, well-drained faces with positive edges rather than slabs — vertical and overhanging slate will shed today's light rain much faster.
  • Consider postponing until May 5 when the forecast shows a dry day after the incoming wet spell, though verify conditions on arrival as the preceding days are damp.
Likely Safe to Climb 88%
9 days ago
Today
Likely Safe to Climb
88%
confidence

Buckstone How has had an excellent drying window — essentially no rain for over a week (only 0.1mm trace on April 26), with dropping humidity, moderate winds, and good temperatures. The south-facing, exposed slate should be thoroughly dry on the surface and conditions look genuinely good for climbing today.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

Crag Considerations
  • The polished quarried slate at Buckstone How becomes dangerously greasy with even light dampness — but after 3+ fully dry days with humidity dropping to 42–53%, surface friction should be excellent today.
  • At 360m altitude, overnight humidity reached ~92% on the 28th, which can deposit condensation on slate surfaces, but today's falling humidity (53%) and easterly breeze should evaporate any overnight dew quickly by mid-morning.
  • The layered ledges at Buckstone How can hold puddles and residual drainage after heavy rain, but the 165mm accumulated over the previous month has had ample time to drain during this prolonged dry spell.
  • The exposed Honister Pass position means wind-assisted drying has been effective, and the S/SW aspect maximises spring solar heating during the lengthening April days.
Warnings 1
  • Check BMC RAD for any bird nesting restrictions — peregrine and raven nesting season runs February–June and may affect some sectors.
Reasoning
Moisture State

With only 0.1mm of precipitation in the last 9 days, consistently dropping humidity (now 53%), and moderate winds, surface moisture on this non-porous slate should be fully evaporated.

Drying Analysis

Three consecutive fully dry days with temperatures reaching 15–18°C, combined with the south-facing exposed aspect and steady breeze, provide more than adequate drying for non-porous slate that does not absorb water.

Structural Risk

Slate is non-porous and does not suffer structural weakening when wet; no freeze-thaw risk at current temperatures (min 0.4°C recently but well above freezing now); hold breakage risk is minimal.

Seasonal Factors

Late April offers lengthening days and improving solar angles for this south-facing crag; spring conditions are favourable, though check for nesting bird restrictions at nearby crags.

Contributing Factors 6
Extended dry spell
95%

Only 0.1mm of trace precipitation in the last 9 days provides an excellent drying window for non-porous slate.

Low current humidity
90%

Today's humidity of 53% and the 7-day average of 60% are unusually low for the Lake District, minimising any ambient moisture on the rock surface.

South-facing exposed aspect
92%

The S/SW aspect and exposed hilltop position at Honister Pass maximise solar warming and wind-assisted evaporation.

Overnight condensation risk
82%

Overnight humidity was 72–92% which could leave light dew, but today's easterly breeze and low daytime humidity should clear this by mid-morning.

Heavy prior month rainfall
88%

165mm fell over 28 days, but as slate is non-porous the concern is only surface drainage, which has had ample time to clear during the 9-day dry spell.

Moderate wind drying
88%

Winds of 15–27 km/h over recent days have aided surface evaporation on this exposed crag.

Recommendations 3
  • Conditions look good — head up and enjoy the climbing, though allow until mid-morning for any overnight dew to burn off from polished surfaces.
  • Test friction on an easy slab before committing to harder routes, as polished Skiddaw Slate can feel subtly greasy even when visually dry.
  • Make the most of the next 1–2 days as the forecast shows increasing humidity and light rain returning from May 1st onwards.

Climbing Outlook

Today 8 May
Do Not Climb 55%
Fri 8 May
Do Not Climb 75%
Sat 9 May
Do Not Climb 75%
Sun 10 May
Do Not Climb 60%
Mon 11 May
Do Not Climb 80%
Tue 12 May
Do Not Climb 80%

Analysis Calendar

May 2026